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Stand and Deliver: 2001 Sauternes (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Lafaurie-Peyraguey, which just predates Silvio Denz’s ownership, has an attractive nose of dried honey, praline and walnut, displaying good intensity though not amazingly complex. The palate is well balanced with a viscous opening, fine acidity and a touch of orange peel and spicebox toward the finish. Elegant and refined, but it needs a…

Focus on Sauternes/Barsac (Jul 2004)

Pale yellow-gold. Orange peel, quince, honey and sexy oak tones of vanilla and spice. Chewy and powerful in the mouth, with highly concentrated flavors of creme caramel, honey and exotic spices. Finishes very long, honeyed and powerful, not to mention flamboyantly aromatic.

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

Another strong showing for the 2002 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru from the late Philippe Engel. The nose is ethereal, offering raspberry and crushed strawberry scents, and the palate is extraordinary in terms of focus. The finish oddly reminds me of Engel’s Grands Echézeaux. Magnificent. Tasted at Noizé restaurant in London.

Champagne: The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2014)

Just beginning to show the early signs of evolution in its color and flavors, the 2000 Clos du Mesnil is in an in between spot where it is ideally cellared for at least another few years, after which it is likely to remain at a plateau of maturity for many, many years. Smoke, crushed rocks,…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(LLSNFF): Vibrant yellow-gold. Smoke- and mineral-accented pear and Meyer lemon on the deeply scented nose, with notes of ginger, vanilla bean and white flowers adding complexity and lift. Sappy, deeply pitched orchard and pit fruit flavors are braced by juicy acidity, picking up sweet butter and anise nuances with air. Chewy and mineral-driven, with superb…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

Even those who dislike this wine had a soft spot for the 1985 Léoville Las-Cases, which has always been atypical in its sensuality and generosity. This bottle really shows its mettle. At almost 40 years old it has stunning delineation on the nose, showing copious red fruit laced with crushed stone and wilted rose petals…