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Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Lynch-Bages has an intense nose of black fruit, cedar and pencil box aromas. This is muted at first but it only takes a few swirls to unleash the aromas. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced, with grainy tannins, real depth and grip. This has dispensed with some of its surliness and there…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Lynch Bages offers red berry fruit, wild hedgerow, game and cumin on the nose. This is nicely focused and controlled. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins. It's harmonious with tobacco- and black pepper-infused red fruit. This is structured and very fine, though more evolved than its Pauillac peers. Tasted blind at the…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Haut-Brion has a superb bouquet with very well-defined blackberry, cedar, cigar humidor and dried blood scents that blossom in the glass – quintessential Haut-Brion. The palate is medium-bodied with an almost medicinal entry and fine acidity. It’s the eucalyptus aspect that really defines the finish, something that I was not expecting. Does that…

2018 Brunello di Montalcino: The Rubik’s Cube Vintage (Dec 2022)

The 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Vecchie Vigne opens with hauntingly dark florals and balsamic tones, as swirling brings about hints of black currant and crushed stone. This is supremely soft-textured, yet lifted by cooling minerality and bright acidity that guides its crunchy wild berry fruits across the palate. It tapers off with amazing length and…

The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Y de Yquem was picked very early from 16 August to 25 August. It was released the week prior to my visit. Side by side, the bouquet is almost identical to the 2018 with green apple and hints of yellow flower, the Sauvignon Blanc very expressive (75% of the blend). The palate is…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Cheval Blanc has an intense bouquet of red and black fruit but lacks the precision and detail of some of its peers at present. It gradually unfurls to reveal light graphite/pencil box aromas, along with a touch of sous-bois indicative of a healthy percentage of Cabernet Franc. The fresh, vibrant palate is medium-bodied…