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Central Spain: Tempranillo and Beyond (Dec 2015)

Inky ruby. Deeply pitched black and blue fruit aromas are complicated by suggestions of smoky Indian spices, vanilla and licorice, with a mineral nuance adding vivacity. Fleshy, broad and appealingly sweet, offering intense blackcurrant and cherry flavors and hints of spicecake and cola. The mineral note comes back strong on the still youthfully tannic finish,…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Aug 2020)

The 2010 Dom Pérignon is hard to get a read on today. I have tasted it four times over the last few months, and my feeling is that it is still not totally put together. Apricot, pastry, chamomile, mint and light tropical notes are all signatures of a hot vintage with a very fast final…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Aug 2020)

The 2010 Dom Pérignon is hard to get a read on today. I have tasted it four times over the last few months, and my feeling is that it is still not totally put together. Apricot, pastry, chamomile, mint and light tropical notes are all signatures of a hot vintage with a very fast final…

Where Art Thou Chablis? – Chablis 2021 & 2022 (Sep 2023)

The 2021 Chablis Vaillons 1er Cru had been blended the previous week, during which a majority of the lees is kept. Often one of my favorite cuvées from William Fevre, the entrancing bouquet has impressive intensity on the nose. The palate is well-balanced with lemon verbena and touches of pear, a fine sense of energy…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

With vivid memories of the outstanding 1990 in my head, I approached my maiden 1989 Chasse-Spleen with lofty expectations. With faint aging on the rim, the 1989 shares the 1990’s melted quality on the nose, scents of red fruit commingling with mocha and brown spices, a whiff of Montecristo later. The palate is medium-bodied with…

White Burgundy 2009 and 2008 (Sep 2010)

Musky, complex aromas of citrus peel, stone and hazelnut. Juicy, pure and light on its feet, with pronounced minerality giving the wine a distinctly high pitch. Finishes with noteworthy persistence. A terrible hailstorm on the north side of the village cut yields but did not affect quality, said Roulot, as the affected grapes dried out…