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2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Puligny-Montrachet Village comes from the 12 parcels located around the appellation. It offers attractive dewy green apples, freshly sliced pear and hints of mirabelle on the nose, which needs a few swirls of the glass to awaken. The palate is well balanced with orange zest and citrus lemon and hints of lime, all…

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Weathers the Challenges and Changes (Oct 2021)

Saturated violet color. Powerful, mineral-accented cherry, blackberry, licorice and -garrigue- scents, along with a hint of candied flowers. Deep, penetrating and alluringly sweet, offering cherry liqueur, dark berry, lavender, exotic spice and cola flavors that are given spine by a core of juicy acidity. In a concentrated yet lively, fluid style. Finishes extremely long and…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Deep red-ruby. Medicinal black cherry, shoe polish and mint on the nose. Fairly intense but cool flavors of cassis, mint and shoe polish are supported by a firm spine. Finishes with broad, dusty tannins. Showing well today. Very St. Estephe.

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Pale color. Ripe but closed on the nose, hinting at menthol and pear. A bit blurry on the palate following the lower-alcohol wines from Deux Montille, showing less of the floral and mineral qualities it displayed from barrel a year ago.

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Ruby-red. Expressive nose offers game, spice, tobacco, leather, underbrush, iron and exotic flowers. Supple and fine-grained, with currant and baked plum flavors complicated by chocolate and leather. A wine of moderate intensity and power for this property but rather suave. The cooler vintage character comes through on the finish, which features notes of raw currant…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Gruaud Larose is consistent with the bottle I drank at the château a few months earlier. It offers a relatively light bouquet with black fruit and a touch of melted tar. The palate is conservative in style, fleshier than I remember, and nicely balanced with a touch of truffle towards the soft landing…