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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Yquem has an attractive bouquet with marmalade, caramelized pear, orange pith and light puff pastry notes. It just needs a little more delineation. The palate is very well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, lightly spiced and impressive focus. Like the aromatics, I would have just liked a little more precision on…

Bordeaux 2010: The Sweet Wines (Aug 2011)

Deep yellow with a golden tinge. Intense aromas of very ripe tropical fruit, beeswax, honey and raisin are lifted by a strong mineral edge. Very fresh, rich and sweet on entry, then extremely light on its feet, with refined flavors of ripe citrus, mango, papaya, honey and saffron complicated by tangy botrytis. A very bright…

Bordeaux ’08: Far Better Than Expected (May 2009)

Glass-staining inky purple color. Highly perfumed, vinous nose offers candied violet and spicy plum complicated by hints of minerals and graphite. The palate offers a nice balance between spicy black fruits and ripe tannins. A bit warm and chunky on the back, but finishes with good grip and length. This has the nose of a…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Barbaresco Costa Russi is gorgeous. Dark, layered and wonderfully inviting, the Costa Russi expresses the restrained style of the vintage and yet has terrific depth. Black cherry, plum, mocha, spice, leather and star anise build as this sumptuous, classically mid-weight Barbaresco shows of all of its pedigree. The 2017 is a lighter Costa…

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Barbaresco Sorì Tildìn is a tightly wound and austere wine that is going to need at least a few years to soften. Today, it is decidedly tight and lighter in body than is customary. Last year, the 2017 had more body, but it seems to have lost some of that depth since then….

Barbaresco: The Highs & Lows of 2016-2020 (Oct 2020)

The 2017 Barbaresco Sorì San Lorenzo shows its typical darkness and brooding character, but it is a bit light in body and structure. Time in the glass brigs out some of the wine’s natural breadth, but the 2017 is decidedly on the lighter side, as all these wines are. Dark plum, spice, smoke, licorice and…