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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

Representing 40% of the total volume, a little more than usual, the 2021 Le Petit-Mouton, is aged in 50% new oak. A very Cabernet nose with conspicuous graphite scents infusing the black fruit, a little Earl Grey in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy opening, not amazingly complex but well balanced with…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Le Petit-Mouton is a powerful wine, but not quite the charmer it can be. There’s good fruit density, but the tannins are a bit severe. I imagine at least some of that is attributable to the relatively high percentage of Cabernet in the blend. Overall, the 2021 comes across as a bit severe,…

2021 Bordeaux: L’Enfant Terrible (Feb 2024)

Dark and brooding in bearing, the 2021 Pichon Baron is a somber, mysterious wine. It is every bit as impressive as it was en primeur. Graphite, leather, spice, mocha and dried herbs meld together in a wine of power, precision and contemporary classicism. It’s one of my early favorites in this vintage. I won’t be…

2+2=5: Bordeaux 2021 In Bottle (Feb 2024)

The 2021 Pichon Baron, which was matured in 60% new oak and bottled in June 2023, has an engaging bouquet, estuarine-influenced with hints of seaweed permeating the black fruit. It shows fine delineation and focus, the like we have come to expect these days. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannins, quite fleshy in style…

Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Pichon-Longueville Baron (which, incidentally, has been the legal name since 2021!) is matured in 70% new oak. It opens up nicely in the glass, revealing a straight-down-the-line, floral bouquet of violets intermingled with graphite notes. There is a delicacy about the aromatics that distinguishes it from recent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Pichon-Baron is a dense, packed wine, its mid-weight structure notwithstanding. There is a lot of wine here, but readers have to be patient. Red-toned fruit, blood orange, mint, rose petal and cinnamon add layers of nuance, but more than anything else, the 2021 stands out for its persistence.