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2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

Medium red. Captivating high notes of strawberry, raspberry, white pepper and pungent oak spices. Juicy, intense and soil-driven, with complex saline soil tones to the flavors of redcurrant, spices and pepper. Finishes long and salty, with very good lift. Aubert de Villaine told me he preferred both the 2011 and 2009 versions of this wine.

Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets (Dec 2018)

Ample and perfumed, with tons of richness, the 2015 Insignia has a lot to offer. Sweet tobacco, menthol, licorice, plum, dried herbs and licorice add aromatic nuance to this decidedly extroverted, flamboyant wine. Even all of the wine’s richness can’t fully cover some rough edges, especially in the tannins, and a feel of stress that…

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru has a well-defined nose with perhaps more mineralité than others. The palate is medium-bodied with a smooth entry, light tropical notes with hints of peach and apricot, quite sensual towards the finish that lingers in the mouth. Delicious, but maybe it just needs a little more tension. Closure:…

Everyday Piedmont, Part 1 (Sep 2021)

The 2019 Alteni di Brassica is bright, focused and full of energy. Sage, mint, tomato leaf and a whole range of varietal accents lend vibrancy to this beautifully sculpted, phenolic in feel Sauvignon from the Gaja family. The 2019 was fermented and aged in a combination of steel and cask, with no racking until bottling….

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2009 Alpilles Rouge is a powerful, brooding wine. It is also the most reticent of the five wines in this report. I don’t see the aromatic nuance, textural richness or finesse of the best years. Instead, the 2009 comes across as brooding and a bit monolithic. Of course, it is possible the 2009 is…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru comes from a small parcel abutting Les Pucelles, planted in 1936. It has a pleasant floral bouquet, although to be honest it is a bit overwhelmed by some of Sauzet’s high-performing Premier Crus. The palate is strict and focused with a fine bead of acidity. Fresh and malic in style,…