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Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Pavillon Rouge has a slightly gamey bouquet, though there is fine delineation and the oak is well integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated fleshy tannins but it has structure, grip and a sense of composure on the sapid finish. This is a well-crafted Margaux. Tasted blind at the 2015 Bordeaux Ten-Year-On tasting…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Brilliant purple. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes dark berry preserves, incense, candied flowers, vanilla and cola, with a smoky, incisive mineral nuance building with air. Juicy, penetrating and alluringly sweet, offering deeply concentrated blueberry, cherry-cola, mocha and violet pastille flavors and a strong suggestion of fruitcake. Shockingly vibrant for its depth, with youthfully firm…

2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

The 2017 Barolo Sperss is a powerful, backward wine. In 2017 Sperss is not as huge as in some previous years, but then again, the move towards greater finesse has been in place for some time now. In tasting, Sperss feels more extracted and tannic than Conteisa (even after allowing for the clear differences in…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2010 Corton Grand Cru was the second release from DRC after taking over the Prince Florent de Merode holdings en fermage. This bottles showed very well. It is extremely perfumed, almost heady on the nose with beautifully defined blue fruit laced with violet. There is something sensual about the aromatics. The palate is lush…

2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

Medium red. Captivating high notes of strawberry, raspberry, white pepper and pungent oak spices. Juicy, intense and soil-driven, with complex saline soil tones to the flavors of redcurrant, spices and pepper. Finishes long and salty, with very good lift. Aubert de Villaine told me he preferred both the 2011 and 2009 versions of this wine.

Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets (Dec 2018)

Ample and perfumed, with tons of richness, the 2015 Insignia has a lot to offer. Sweet tobacco, menthol, licorice, plum, dried herbs and licorice add aromatic nuance to this decidedly extroverted, flamboyant wine. Even all of the wine’s richness can’t fully cover some rough edges, especially in the tannins, and a feel of stress that…