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Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1996 Lynch-Bages is showing some bricking on the rim. It seems fully mature on the nose with blurred red fruit, autumn leaves and undergrowth. A light ferrous scent emerges with time, later a touch of eucalyptus. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, a little dry and austere, and fine acidity, but I feel…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 2005 Château Margaux is a First Growth that I had not tasted for several years. According to the estate, it finally began to open during the pandemic. I remember this was stellar in its flush of youth, and earned a three-figure score from the Southwold blind tasting way back in 2009. Now at two…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

A wine of exceptional finesse, the 2014 Cheval Blanc lifts from the glass with captivating aromatics and sculpted red-fleshed fruit, all with the extra kick of acidity and overall freshness that are such a signature of this vintage. The 2014 is bright, finessed and persistent. It will almost certainly put on weight in bottle. I…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Cheval Blanc has an attractive nose with brambly red fruit, sous-bois, a pencil box and a touch of Xmas cake. It does not take too much aeration before it develops further aromas of black truffle and morels. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy, ripe and tensile with red peppercorn hints toward…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Lurid violet. Heady, expansive aromas of black raspberry, cassis, green olive, incense and violet carry an exotic spice overtone. Densely packed and focused on the palate, displaying superb clarity to the sappy dark fruit preserve, floral pastille and spicecake flavors. Distinctly powerful, yet there’s surprisingly liveliness here as well. Finishes extremely long and sweet, featuring…

1999 Barolo: Brilliance, Intensity and Class (Aug 2014)

The 1999 Barolo Villero impresses for its intense, bright fruit and overall precision. Sweet red cherries, flowers and pine open up in the glass, followed by expressive floral overtones that add nuance. The 1999 can be enjoyed today, or anytime over the next decade, give or take. This is a terrific showing from the Villero.