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2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Medium red. Very ripe, slightly exotic aromas of raspberry, mocha and underbrush. Highly concentrated and deep; opulent and lightly saline but a bit sullen today. Most impressive right now on the very long, slowly mounting finish, which really camps out on the palate. Vinified with 20% whole clusters but I never would have guessed it…

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

(totally destemmed): Bright medium red. Pure but subdued aromas of strawberry and crushed stone lifted by an exotic floral note; like a number of these 2011s, this shows some very ripe notes. Sappy, dense and saline, showing surprising energy for its level of ripeness. Finishes very long, with noble tannins and more spine than the…

2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

(a moderate 12.6% alcohol): Good full red. Aromas of plum, redcurrant, strawberry and earth. Sweet and pliant in the mouth, but can’t match the Malconsorts for mouthfeel or depth. Nicely spicy but I wanted a bit more precision. Finishes with dusty tannins. This smaller-scaled Echezeaux doesn’t not quite capitalize on the potential richness of the…

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Pale, bright lemon-yellow. Reticent nose dominated by spicy oak. Deep but closed and youthfully unforthcoming, with its ripe pear, peach and mineral flavors not yet expressive. Finishes with strong saline minerality and echoing, rising length. Chewier and drier than the Bienvenue. Unlike the other 2013 grand crus from Ramonet, this wine remained stubbornly closed after…

Champagne: 2017 New Releases (Dec 2017)

The most remarkable thing about the 2002 Extra Brut R.D. is how tense and structured it is. Despite having been disgorged over two years ago, the 2002 is very much tightly wound. After several hours, the power and resonance of the vintage start to come through, along with the natural richness of Pinot from Aÿ….

Vintage Champagne (Dec 2014)

(60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay; about 4 g/l dosage; disgorged on October 22, 2013): Light gold. Powerful, mineral-laced scents of orange zest, pear skin, iodine and chamomile, with a hint of anise in the background. On the palate, vibrant orchard and citrus fruit flavors unfurl slowly, picking up toasty lees and mace nuances that…