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2010 Red Burgundies (Mar 2013)

(13.8% alcohol with a bit of chaptalization, according to winemaker Charles Van Canneyt): Deep, full red. Very recent but pure nose eventually reveals scents of musky wild red fruits and smoky, stony minerality; a real essence of Burgundy. Deep and thick on the palate; dense with extract and utterly smooth too but with explosive energy…

The 2010 Red Burgundies (Feb 2012)

The 2010 Richebourg is, surprisingly, much more expressive than the Romanée St. Vivant. The wine fills out seemingly in all directions with a gorgeous mosaic of ripe red fruit, crushed rocks, mint and flowers. There is fabulous definition in nuance in the aromas and flavors, yet this remains a Richebourg built on understated finesse rather…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2013 Screaming Eagle remains a very young wine. Dark, brooding and quite potent, the 2013 possesses tremendous depth backed by equally serious tannins. Blackberry, graphite, lavender, mocha and dried herbs are some of the many nuances that gradually open in the glass. In most years, Screaming Eagle has a Lafite-like purity of fruit. The…

Vinous Table: Ristorante Osteria Carletti, Bedano, Switzerland (Mar 2018)

Taittinger’s 2002 Comtes de Champagne is a great way to kick things off. Rich, radiant and lush, with all of the exotic ripeness of the year in evidence, the 2002 Comtes delivers the goods. This bottle is perhaps a bit more forward than others have been, but it is nevertheless very fine.

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2012)

(L2117UB00400): Light, bright gold. A heady, intensely perfumed bouquet evokes lemon curd, pear skin, iodine, honeysuckle and toasty lees, with notes of ginger and honey emerging with air. Strikes an impressive balance of power and restraint, opening slowly to offer vibrant citrus and orchard fruit flavors, along with intense floral and spice nuances. Clings with…

Vinous Table: Noizé, London, United Kingdom (Aug 2020)

We started with a sensational 2002 Taittinger Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne. My word, this is exquisite, representing everything I adore in champagne. Limpid gold in hue, it has a compelling bouquet of walnut, smoke, dried honey and shucked oyster shells that I found utterly entrancing. The palate does not disappoint, displaying an irresistible…