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La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Echézeaux En Orveaux Grand Cru is one of the few cuvées to includes 25% whole bunch. It has a light, airy bouquet of dark berry fruit, incense and a touch of lavender. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins on the entry, the stem addition lending quite a strong black pepper note toward…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Vougeot 1er Cru Le Clos Blanc de Vougeot, due for bottling at the end of April with just one or two bâtonnages, has a delightful bouquet with notes of citrus fruit, praline and a touch of white chocolate. The elegant palate is very well balanced with crisp acidity and moderate weight, that soupçon…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Medium red. Reticent but pure aromas of redcurrant, earth, dried flowers, tobacco and smoked meat. Concentrated, savory and firmly built; noteworthy energy gives this very young wine a distinctly sappy character. Finishes fine-grained, dry and long, with the extract to support its ripe tannins. This will go truffley and earthy with six or seven years…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru displays a lot of whole bunch on the nose, but they seem to dominate the fruit profile and terroir, notwithstanding the mineralité. The palate is lighter, more elegant than others, avoiding the sweet ripe fruit of its peers, but it lacks a bit of purity and the stems seem too…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru comes from three parcels, two up on the terraces on terre blanche soils and one on terre rouge_, from mainly 65-year-old vines and using 90% whole bunch. It has a crisp bouquet with touches of dark chocolate and tobacco infusing the black fruit, becoming earthier with continued aeration. The palate…

Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Léoville Barton has a seductive and beautifully composed bouquet with ample brambly red fruit, sous-bois and light pencil shavings scents. This has real finesse. The palate is well balanced with fine tannins, a keen line of acidity and more salinity than its peers. What feels like top-quality new oak smooths the finish but…