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The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Full ruby-red. Deep, mineral-driven aromas of cassis, camphor, peat and spicy oak. Large-scaled and deep; at once powerful and seamless, with impressively concentrated, sharply delineated black fruit and mineral flavors. Seriously structured wine but at the same time quite suave. The rising, very long finish stains the palate with black fruits.

Best New Wines from Spain (Sep 2011)

Deep ruby. Heady, exotic bouquet evokes candied cherry, cassis, sassafras, vanilla and potpourri, plus a smoky overtone. Sappy and expansive but energetic, offering sweet cherry and floral pastille flavors lifted by spice and mineral notes. Gains sweetness with air and finishes with superb clarity and spicy persistence. This benefits enormously from aeration but really should…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Excellent red-ruby color. Plum, currant, animal fur, smoked game, roasted nuts and graphite on the nose, plus a note of toffee. Lush and smooth in the mouth, with notes of minerals, leather and game. Still rather tightly wrapped following the mise, but very nicely balanced from the outset. Firm acidity gives the wine superb delineation…

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

(70% mourvedre and 10% each of grenache, counoise and syrah, all raised in foudre): Glass-staining purple. Hypnotic bouquet of black and blue fruits, potpourri and exotic spices. Broad, sappy and strikingly pure, with intense blackberry and boysenberry flavors that reach ever corner of the palate. Rich but lithe wine with a seamless texture and superb…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2003 Dom Pérignon is in a gorgeous place right now. To be sure, it is a powerful Champagne that reflects the personality of a year marked by frost, that took out 70% of the Chardonnay, and then record heat and drought over the summer. The 2003 is just starting to head into its first…

The Many Facets of Rioja (Nov 2015)

Glass-staining ruby. Heady, exotically perfumed bouquet evokes ripe cherry and red berries, along with suggestions of incense, potpourri and woodsmoke. Deeply concentrated raspberry and cherry-cola flavors are complemented by floral pastille and spicecake nuances. Completely stains the palate and shows superb energy on a long, sappy finish that features velvety tannins and an echo of…