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2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The 2011 Clos de Vougeot boasts serious density and roundness. The finesse of the tannin is especially remarkable. This is an especially sweet, round and inviting Clos Vougeot that stands out for its exceptional balance . Sweet, floral notes add elegance on the finish.

2011 Red Burgundies (Mar 2014)

Medium red. Musky aromas of ripe cherry and fresh herbs; the closest to liqueur-like of these 2011s. Silky on entry, then dense, intense and light on its feet in the middle palate, conveying an impression of energy and lift. Broad, serious wine with the stuffing to support its firm tannic spine. This has the structure…

Six Decades of Pavie-Macquin: 1928-2018 (May 2020)

The 2004 Pavie-Macquin is not especially complex or nuanced, but it is exquisitely delicious and also a fabulous choice for drinking now and over the next few years. Leather, spice, chocolate and licorice fill out the layers effortlessly. More than anything else, the 2004 is a wine of total pleasure.

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Pavie Macquin (Mar 2014)

(14% alcohol; pH 3.47): Deep red. Refined aromas of ripe red cherry and strawberry jam complicated by notes of rosemary, marjoram and cocoa. Suave, rich and dense, with savory red cherry, licorice and herb flavors showing lovely balance and surprising flesh for the vintage. Finishes long and rich, with mouthcoating, polished tannins. A major success…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Deep ruby-red. Black cherry, exotic oak spices and mint on the nose, with some suggestions of riper fruits. Sweet, intense and densely packed, with firm underlying structure and a cool-site character giving shape and energy to the flavors of dark cherry, cassis, truffle and violet. Very shapely wine. Finishes with chewy, ripe tannins and sneaky…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2005 Marquis d’Alesme Becker has a slightly rustic nose of loamy red berry fruit, dried blood and sandalwood. It does not quite have the finesse of more recent vintages. Likewise, the palate is broad-shouldered, stocky and a bit rough around the edges, yet I admire its weight and density. A few more years in…