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2013 Napa Valley: Once Upon a Time in America… (Oct 2015)

Just as magnificent from bottle as it was in barrel, the 2013 Napanook is dense, powerful and brooding, with searing intensity and extraordinary balance. Lavender, plums, violets, licorice and smoke are some of the signatures, but the 2013 exudes finesse, power and intensity. Bracing and searing, the 2013 is going to require quite a bit…

2015 Bordeaux: Every Bottle Tells a Story… (Feb 2018)

A massive, powerful wine, the 2015 Enclos Tourmaline sits on the edge of overripeness, and yet there is just enough balance to keep the wine on course. To be sure, this is an extroverted, flamboyant style. The black cherry, plum, chocolate, licorice and leather flavors are all amped up in this sumptuous Saint-Émilion. Enclos Tournaline…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Larcis Ducasse has a very delineated, focused bouquet with blackberry, graphite, hint of freshly shaved black truffle and light granitic scents that emerge with time. Of all the recent vintages, this is perhaps one that leans a little toward Pomerol in style, maybe due to the expressive Cabernet Franc (14%). The palate is…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Larcis Ducasse is a huge, vertical wine. Readers will have to be patient, as the 2022 will need quite a few years to shed some of its considerable baby fat. Dense dark red fruit, new leather, licorice, rose petal and mocha are all broadly sketched. Imposing and vertical in build, this is immensely…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Clerc Milon has a nicely detailed bouquet of blackberry, raspberry, light cassis and iodine aromas gently unfurling from the glass, the new oak neatly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with graphite-infused black fruit. Quite a strict and linear Clerc Milon, it is classic Pauillac from start to finish. The pencil-lead-tinged, quite sinewy finish…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Clerc Milon is showing beautifully today. Gorgeous savory notes from the Cabernet Sauvignon open first, showing the modern direction of Clerc Milon towards a more Cabernet focused wine. Dried flowers, menthol, licorice, graphite and black cherry are all laced together effortlessly. The tannins have settled down a bit since en primeur, which is…