Archives: Product Reviews

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Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Laid-back, extremely young aromas of honey, creme caramel, smoke and earth; essence of semillon. Rich, large-scaled and powerful; really expands in the mouth. Lovely harmonious acidity and bright notes of orange peel and minerals give this very youthful wine great clarity of flavor. Classy and impeccably balanced. The subtle, oak-spicy, nutty finish goes on and…

Vinous Table: The Dysart at Petersham, Richmond, UK (Sep 2024)

To finish, back on “home turf” with the 1989 Yquem. It is a vintage I have drunk many times in recent years: quince, apricots, honey and saffron burst forth on the nose with brilliant delineation. The palate is a little tauter than in previous bottles, with marmalade and quince to the fore and an energetic,…

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2004 Giscours has a respectable bouquet given the growing season—well-defined, traditional claret in every way with shades of forest floor and graphite. Well-balanced with slightly dry tannins, it’s missing a little backbone towards the finish. I suspect it will not improve with bottle age.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2005)

Good red-ruby. Black fruits, licorice and shoe polish, with a light roasted note. Then dry, inky and penetrating, with medicinal black fruits and nutty oak showing. Finishes with dusty, even tannins and an edge of acidity. Classic, rather austere Pauillac, with moderate texture and ripeness.

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2015 Vin de Constance is limpid silver-gold in the glass. It has a bouquet of acacia honey, marmalade and pressed yellow flowers, plus a slight adhesive note in the background; I cannot recall a Vin de Constance with such intense aromatics. The palate is viscous on the entry, and a vital bead of acidity…

Long Distance Runner: Brane-Cantenac 1924-2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2008 Brane-Cantenac continues to display the eucalyptus element that I have noticed on previous bottles, and frankly, it’s distracting and obscures the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied and slightly medicinal in style, and one of the most rounded Brane-Cantenacs in recent years in terms of texture, something that I would not have predicted…