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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Good dark red. Blackberry, licorice, leather, chocolate and a whiff of peat on the nose. Intensely flavored, fine-grained and lively, with noteworthy energy to its dark berry and dark chocolate flavors. A firmly built wine in a rather cool style for the year, finishing with chocolatey tannins, a lightly herbal quality and very good length….

Balloons, Mermaids & Margaux: Château Giscours 1938-2023 (Apr 2025)

The 2009 Giscours has almost exactly the same nose as the last bottles, with hints of curry leaf infusing the black fruit. It still leans a little towards Saint-Julien in style, maybe with some Brettanomyces. Quite classic in style, the palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and graphite-infused black fruit. It’s taut and fresh with…

The Rise of Rosso di Montalcino (Oct 2022)

Rich and balsamic in the glass, the 2020 Solengo smolders up with an array of mocha-tinged black cherries and tobacco lifted by hints of grilled sage and fresh mint. It shows the warmth but also elegance of the vintage, coming across as seamlessly silky on the palate. A balanced inner sweetness and vibrant core of…

Archive Away: Mature Burgundies 1919-2019 (Jun 2024)

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots 1er Cru, en magnum, has a clean and precise bouquet, tightly-wound at first, perhaps lean to those accustomed to more fruit driven Burgundy of late. Yet there is real tension here. The palate is medium-bodied and pliant on the entry with pointed acidity. There’s a slight tapering towards the finish…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Vieux-Château-Certan can be highly variable from bottle to bottle. After two disappointing examples, this came out of the blue. It has an intense and powerful bouquet of black cherry, tobacco, brown spices and loamy aromas. This is very complex and compelling. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, firm tannins surrounded by plenty of…