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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Mouton-Rothschild needed 2–3 hours before I began composing a single word. Eventually it unfolds with the same aromatics that I observed out of barrel: extraordinarily pure blackberry, blueberry, pressed violet petals and potpourri. It still has the alluring Margaux-like florality. The palate is medium-bodied with filigreed tannins, disarmingly satin-like texture and wonderful cohesion….

Vinous Table: Roagna Barbaresco Crichët Pajé: 2001-2014 (May 2024)

The 2014 Barbaresco Crichët Pajé is a fine example of the style Luca Roagna favors today. Elegant and refined, with tons of ethereal beauty, the 2014 conveys tons of nuance and complexity, but without excess weight. Hints of kirsch, red plum, mint and spice lead into the refined, sublime finish. Superb.

2019 Barolo: Back on Track (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello is attractive, but also two-dimensional relative to the very best years. Dark cherry, plum, tobacco, cedar, incense and licorice all open in the glass. The 2018 is a bit strict in its tannins, but is developing well. Give it at least a few more years in bottle. This is…

2020 Barolo: Selective Excellence (Jan 2024)

The 2019 Barolo is a potent, layered wine, within the super-classic style that is the house signature. Dark cherry, plum, spice, leather, licorice and menthol add to an impression of brooding intensity. There’s real weight and substance here that needs time to emerge. Dried herbs, sage, mint, tobacco and cedar linger on the vibrant, tense…

2022 Rheinhessen & Nahe: Rain in the Nick of Time (Sep 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Grosses Gewächs is from shale soils. The nose immediately expresses water on hot stone: warm and redolent of things that are not vegetal but mineral. The palate, however, holds Riesling’s alluring citrus and stone fruit. The stony depth and dimension are undeniable, waiting patiently in the background to come to…

2021 Mosel and Saar – Tantalizing, Tingling, Thrilling (Jun 2023)

Smoke and reduction still cloud the nose of the 2021 Riesling Wehlener Sonnenuhr Kabinett, but golden, aromatic, textured fruit somehow combines pink grapefruit and russet pear peel, golden Mirabelle and lime. There’s wonderful ripeness channeled with absolute precision on an elegant, smooth palate. Subtle fruit echoes long, real elegance. (Sweet)