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Myth Over Matter: Mature Burgundy 1920-2019 (Mar 2023)

The 2015 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is a scintillating wine – always has been. Dark cherries and still that hint of bergamot on the nose that shimmers with youthful delight, perfectly in tune with the oak. Perhaps a little more mineralité than I recall. It oddly seems to tighten up with aeration instead of opening! The…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(a blend of 57% cabernet sauvignon, 23% merlot and 20% cabernet franc; 14.6% alcohol) Deep ruby-purple. Brooding, closed nose hints at strawberry, ripe red cherry, white pepper, minerals and violet; showing its cabernet franc element today. Rich and full on entry, displaying lovely depth to its ripe red fruit, underbrush and tobacco flavors. Harmonious acidity…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2010 Haut-Brion is a bit of a monster at the moment. I don’t mean that pejoratively. Black fruit, melted tar and Earl Grey soar on the nose, perhaps showing a little more mineralité than prior bottles. The palate is huge (more concentrated than the 2010 La Mission served alongside); it’s almost burly and grippy…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Good full ruby-red. Complex, expressive, very showy aromas and flavors of cassis, menthol, smoke and tobacco complemented by violet, milk chocolate and sweet spices. Fat, sweet and concentrated in the mouth, with an almost liqueur-like ripeness to its highly concentrated, palate-saturating flavors. Finishes ripe and savory, with huge but plush tannins and lingering notes of…

Napa Valley’s 2022 & 2023 Cabernet Sauvignons (Dec 2024)

The 2013 Opus One is a powerful, dense wine. A blast of dark-fleshed fruit, leather, spice, tobacco, menthol and licorice races across the palate. The 2013 still possesses notable textural depth. The aromatics are a bit open and also suggestive of a wine that has entered its first plateau of maturity.

Napa Valley’s 2022 & 2023 Cabernet Sauvignons (Dec 2024)

The 2013 Opus One is a powerful, dense wine. A blast of dark-fleshed fruit, leather, spice, tobacco, menthol and licorice races across the palate. The 2013 still possesses notable textural depth. The aromatics are a bit open and also suggestive of a wine that has entered its first plateau of maturity.