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Cellar Favorite: 2000 Calon-Ségur (Sep 2025)

Today, the powerful and brooding 2000 Calon-Ségur exudes Saint-Estèphe character in a style that marries classicism with exotic beauty. Dark-fleshed fruit, gravel, incense, tobacco, dried leaves and earthy notes open first in the beguiling bouquet. The 2000 is deep and layered in the glass, qualities that become even more prominent over time. Insistent tannins have…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion poured in Hong Kong is unquestionably the best I have encountered in recent years. Youthful in hue, it has a breathtaking bouquet with stunning definition, a mixture of shimmering black fruit, crushed stone, black truffle and graphite. The palate is multi-faceted with unerring complexity, yet the freshness, frisson and energy…

Rockeries in Living Rooms: 1988 vs. 1989 Bordeaux (Jul 2024)

The bottle of 1989 Haut-Brion poured in Hong Kong is unquestionably the best I have encountered in recent years. Youthful in hue, it has a breathtaking bouquet with stunning definition, a mixture of shimmering black fruit, crushed stone, black truffle and graphite. The palate is multi-faceted with unerring complexity, yet the freshness, frisson and energy…

Henschke’s Hill of Grace – The Garden of Eden (Apr 2023)

The 2018 Shiraz Hill of Grace is stunning from the get-go, boasting ethereal aromas that immediately draw you in, including mixed spices, damson plum, new leather, five-spice and old earth notes with a gravelly edge. Oak sits comfortably in the background with remarkable all-around composure. The immaculate palate showcases robust flavors and muscular tannins packed…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has a well-defined bouquet of white peach, apricot and light candle wax aromas and nicely integrated oak. The well-balanced palate leads with quince and orange peel on the entry, revealing a pleasant bitter undertow and fanning out with confidence toward the saline finish. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc offers quite a bit of upfront intensity and attack, but then loses persistence through the mid-palate and finish, which makes it come across as rather monolithic. I don’t see the focus, tension or energy that are such signatures of the Blanc. Perhaps time in bottle will help to some…