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Blind Vision: 2015 Burgundy Red & White (Nov 2018)

The 2015 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is showing quite a bit of oak on the nose, although this should be subsumed with bottle age. The palate is rounded and rather oaky on the entry and the finish is dominated by the wood. This has shown supremely well in the past and I think it’s…

Chablis 2016 & 2015: Quality Over Quantity (Aug 2017)

Bright, pale yellow. Very ripe yet classic Clos aromas of menthol, iodine, silex and wild herbs, with a touch of oyster-shell reduction. Densely packed and fine-grained, with lovely lemony acidity nicely balancing the wine’s sweetness. The whiplash of a finish features citrus and herb notes and a positive tartness that calls for some cellaring. Droin…

2008 and 2007 White Burgundies (Sep 2009)

Bright, pale yellow. Reserved aromas of yellow peach and rocks. Less supple but more complex than the Vireuils, with a firm spine of acidity giving thrust to the lemony flavor. Still youthfully angular (always the highest in acidity among my wines, says Roulot) but finishes with excellent cut and length. Give this one four or…

Hungary’s 21st-Century Tokajis (Jun 2014)

(174 g.l. r.s): Bright orange-gold. Smells lighter and livelier than the Betsek, offering fruitier aromas of peach and apricot. Then fresh, high-pitched and tight on the palate, with lively acidity framing and lifting the flavors of orange zest, apricot and spices. Finishes youthful, silky and long. Like the Betsek, this is a blend of furmint,…

Hungary’s 21st-Century Tokajis (Jun 2014)

(185 g/l r.s.): Full orange-gold. High-toned aromas of orange liqueur, honeycomb and walnut, along with a sexy flor-like yeasty note. Silky, fine-grained and moderately viscous, with racy acidity enlivening the high-toned flavors of apricot and sultana raisin. Finishes firm and moderately long.

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.7% alcohol; 2.9 g/l acidity): Full medium-dark red. Sexy, inviting scents of raspberry, mocha, leather, spices and minerals, plus a whiff of dark chocolate. Dense, sweet and deep, conveying outstanding intensity to its plush flavors of blueberry, blackberry and mocha. Spreads out horizontally to saturate the palate on the very long, slowly mounting finish. This…