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Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Capbern has a thoroughly enjoyable, finely delineated and focused nose, with a mixture of red and black fruit, cedar and light sandalwood scents. The palate is medium-bodied and very sapid, with crisp tannins, decent length and impressive weight on the finish. It's a bit uncompromising but this should repay cellaring and deserves a…

2017 Bordeaux – Mirror, Mirror on The Wall… (Mar 2020)

The 2017 Pichon-Baron has developed into a potent wine, even by its own standards. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, grilled herbs, licorice, new leather and spice all flesh out in a succulent Pauillac that shows the racier personality of the year. In the glass, Pichon is dark, racy and sumptuous as it so often is, with…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Pichon-Baron was picked from 18 September with the Merlot, finishing on 3 October with the Cabernet Sauvignon, matured in 80% new oak for 20 months. It has a crisp, precise and tightly wound bouquet, although the aromatics feel a little reticent. Likewise, the tannins are a little conspicuous at this precise moment. They…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2012 Vieux Château Certan comes from a late harvest picked from October 1. The Cabernet is potent on the nose, not dissimilar to the 2008 with Montecristo cigars and undergrowth infusing the black fruit. Certainly, this is pretty Left Bank in style. The palate is well-balanced with a slightly herbaceous, peppery entry. Espresso notes…

Memories Elide: Vieux Château Certan 1923-2020 (Jul 2024)

The 2000 Vieux Château Certan, which contains 20% Cabernet Franc, shows minor aging on the rim. The bouquet has opened up since I last tasted it, predominantly black fruit laced with licorice, less of the chimney soot aspect that I observed six years ago, though with a light Earl Grey scent. The palate is medium-bodied…

Focus on Barbaresco – A Close Look at 2019 & 2020 (Oct 2022)

The 2019 Barbaresco Serraboella is fresh, floral and quite delicate. Bright acids lift a core of red fruit, chalk, mint and white pepper. Nervy and quite aromatic, the 2019 is super-impressive today. I especially like the mineral drive. Give this sinewy, taut Barbaresco a few years to soften.