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Focus on Champagne (Nov 2005)

Pale straw, with gold highlights. Leesy, buttery aromas of honey, orange and toast. Toffee apple, fresh apricot and exotic papaya flavors are accented by dense truffle and smoke. Possesses a wonderfully supple texture and good heft but there’s ample acidity to keep it fresh and bright. Finishes spicy, firm and long. This will age well….

Focus on Champagne (Nov 2003)

Pungent, vivid aromas of pineapple, lime, rose petal, honeysuckle and powdered stone. Wonderfully dense and rich but fine-grained, with an almost velvety texture leavened by vibrant, harmonious acidity. A big, pliant, mouthcoating Salon with great ripeness of fruit and subtle floral and mineral notes. Amazingly solid Champagne that really coats the mouth on the explosive,…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Pétrus possesses lovely depth and density for the year. Dark red stone fruits, tobacco, smoke and graphite all blossom in the glass. Underlying beams of firm tannin support the fruit nicely. Violets, game, plums and new leather wrap around the finish. Today, the tannins are a bit firm, especially within the context of…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(100% merlot): Bright, dark ruby. Captivating, extremely pure aromas of fresh blackcurrant, mocha, gunflint and violet. Precise and multilayered, with small dark berry flavors given clarity and cut by lively, harmonious acidity. The finish is complex and very long. Lighter than usual but extremely pure and perfumed, this knockout wine has silkier, smoother tannins than…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Petrus has a somewhat dour nose, and compared to the Lafleur, it lacks fruit intensity and freshness. There is an underlying herbaceous element here. The palate is medium-bodied with somewhat dry tannins, moderate weight and fine acidity. Given the peppery finish, you might presume there was some Cabernet Franc in the blend. But…

Alsace 1998 and 1997 (Jul 1999)

Ripe but tangy aromas of lime, orange peel, mint and chalk. Penetrating, hard-edged lime and orange zest flavors; a low-fat wine enlivened by electric acidity. With its strong impression of malic acidity, this is a perfect example of the 1996 vintage: there virtually nothing like this wine in either ’97 or ’98. A wine of…