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The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 2000 Petrus was served blind as an extra in an already formidable line-up. Deep, inky in hue, it has an intense nose of black and red fruit laced with pencil shavings and black truffle, the latter more prominently featured vis-à-vis previous bottles. The palate is medium-bodied, one of the most youthful examples that I…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

($1; 400) Bright ruby-red. Knockout nose combines mulberry, raspberry liqueur, toffee, iron and minerals. Silky and thick on entry, then extremely dense and backward in the middle palate, with superripe notes of liqueur, game and truffle. A remarkably impressive, rather wild Petrus in an almost late-harvest style. Finishes with big, thoroughly ripe tannins and gamey…

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

The 2015 Scarecrow is stunning. Powerful and intense, but with more detail than it has shown in the past, the 2015 is positively dazzling. Super-ripe red cherry, pomegranate, mint, blood orange and exotic spice infuse this deep, resonant Cabernet Sauvignon. Over the years, winemaker Celia Welch has dialed back the oak by giving the wine…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, matured in almost 40% new oak, has a beautifully detailed, mineral-driven bouquet of granite, yellow flowers and citrus notes that displays impressive breeding (as you would expect from this vineyard). The palate is well balanced with fine definition, a crisp bead of acidity and a cohesive, persistent finish. Excellent.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a very floral bouquet of lively red berry fruit infused with pressed rose petal and wild heather. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and a fine bead of acidity. Very elegant and poised, with a harmonious but not deep finish. As is often the case, a very enjoyable…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Bright ruby-red. More brooding on the nose than the Romanée-Saint-Vivant, conveying a medicinal cast to its aromas of dark berries, licorice pastille and violet. Boasts outstanding density and power but this penetrating wine shows a magically light touch and comes across as distinctly airy today. Not fleshy but delivers superb energy and cut. Quite different…