Archives: Product Reviews

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2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Deep red. Aromatic nose of blueberry, blackberry, raspberry, minerals and lead pencil. Dense but imploded, with excellent intensity and delineation of flavor. Finishes with substantial oak tannins. This structured, concentrated wine strikes me as just ripe enough to really blossom with time in bottle.

Cellar Favorite: 1890, 1990, 2005 & 2015 Branaire-Ducru (Nov 2023)

The 1990 Branaire-Ducru is a vintage that, strangely, I had not encountered before. It has an attractive nose of black fruit tinged with peppermint, well-defined considering the warmth of the growing season, with a hint of aniseed. The palate has moved decidedly into its secondary phase, veering slightly towards more red fruit, mint and juniper….

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Branaire-Ducru (Mar 2014)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 25% merlot, 5% cabernet franc and 5% petit verdot; 3.69 pH; 12.8% alcohol): Bright red with an amber rim. Decadent aromas of ripe red cherry and cassis are lifted by cedar and graphite notes. Enters the mouth soft and creamy, showing an almost opulent mouthfeel, then turns slightly diffuse in the middle,…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Good deep red. Aromas of coffee, chocolate, blackcurrant, herbs and toasty wood. Soft entry, then decent texture and sweetness, but lacks nuance and real concentration. In fact, seems a bit dull. Finishes slightly dry, with tongue-coating tannins.

Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2019)

The 2014 Trinoro is polished and understated, with less of the textural intensity than is the norm. Then again, this is 2014. Sweet floral notes melt into a core of dark blue/purplish berry fruit, with scents of lavender, chocolate and spice that develop later. Medium in body and overall structure, the 2014 will drink well…

Domaine Leroy: The 2015s From Bottle (Mar 2018)

The 2015 Pommard Les Vignots is outrageously beautiful, not to mention a remarkable wine with which to kick off the tasting. Bold and racy, the 2015 exudes a level of depth and textural richness that is frankly hard to imagine at this level. The Vignots is surprisingly expressive, open and giving today.