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Test of Endurance: Bordeaux 2014 Ten Years On (Mar 2024)

The 2014 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse feels advanced on the nose, not in a negative way, less minerally than four years ago, with scents of hickory and leather complementing the melted red fruit. One would think that it comes from a warmer season. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, slightly powdery in texture, and cooked…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

An utterly spellbinding wine, the 2014 Beauséjour Héritiers Duffau-Lagarrosse is also one of the unqualified successes of the vintage. Beams of tannin give the 2014 its ample, broad feel. Inky red cherry, blueberry, smoke, leather and tobacco fill out the wine’s big frame effortlessly. Layers of intense fruit meld into a huge spine of tannin…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Sarpe is an exotic, full-throttle wine. Expressive floral, white pepper and espresso notes add a super-appealing upper register of aromatic intensity to a core of ripe, red cherry/plum fruit. Sumptuous and racy, Clos de Sarpe remains one of the most distinctive wines being made in Bordeaux today. The 2016 is a…

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Sarpe has an opulent bouquet of macerated black cherries, sloes and raspberry confit, though I sense more delineation here than in vintages I have tasted previously. The palate is rounded and generous on the entry, offering sumptuous black cherry and raspberry laced with white pepper, clove and bay leaf. There is…

The Vast Bounty of Central Spain (Feb 2021)

Saturated ruby. Expansive cherry, black raspberry, potpourri and exotic spice aromas are complemented by subtle licorice and woodsmoke flourishes. Vibrant and sharply focused in the mouth, with a spine of juicy acidity adding focus to palate-staining black and blue fruit liqueur, violet pastille, mocha and spicecake flavors. The floral quality resonates emphatically on the clinging…

A Quarter of a Century in Chile: A Vertical Tasting of Seña (Aug 2022)

The 2012 Seña is the product of a warm year combined with the peak of the overripe, oaky approach in style. A blend of 52% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Carménère, 12% Merlot, 7% Malbec and 6% Petit Verdot aged for 22 months in two thirds new French barrels. Garnet red in hue. The sun and heat…