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Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1986 Pichon-Baron is a rather disappointing wine in the context of a great Left Bank vintage. It repeats its performance of two years earlier, when I tasted it from magnum. The nose of staid black fruit is foursquare and rather dour, lacking animation. The medium-bodied palate offers light tannin and dense, smoke-tinged black fruit…

1999 and 1998 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2001)

Saturated ruby-red. Superripe but reticent, grenache-dominated aromas of roasted plum, cherry jam, tar and humus. Fat, lush and stuffed with fruit; almost heavy today compared to the ’99. But this is utterly silky and its firm underlying structure is buried by fruit and baby fat. Intriguing meat and licorice notes. A wine of superb finesse…

1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Good deep ruby-red. Spicy aromas of black cherry and bitter chocolate; the 40% mourvedre component gives this wine unusual freshness for a ’97. Silky but bright on the palate, with leather and game nuances adding complexity to the black fruit flavors. Brisk finish hints at tree bark and leather.

2004 and 2003 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2006)

Deep, dense red color. Vibrant aromas of aromas of cherry, wild herbs, fresh flowers and minerals. Energetic and sweet, showing no overripe qualities; offers a silky, suave texture and wonderfully pure red berry, fresh plum, kirsch and fig flavors. Those with an aversion to the funky, gamey character that can characterize Beaucastel in typical vintages…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1996 Clinet is a vintage I am glad to retaste, made just a few days after Ronan Laborde’s father took over the property in March 1999. It spent 21 weeks in new oak plus 5 months in stainless steel. This bottle is similar to the one I tasted in 2016. Hints of smudged red…

Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 1985 Pichon-Baron is fully mature on the nose, featuring vigorous blackberry, raspberry confit, dried blood and oxtail aromas, almost Rhône-like in style. It is one of the few bouquets of this Second Growth that you might describe as “animally.” The fleshy, medium-bodied palate offers supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity and pretty red…