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Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

Sweet roses, raspberries, sage, tobacco, underbrush, cinnamon and new leather jump from the glass in the 2012 Le Volte dell’Ornellaia. This is an unusually fresh, vibrant Le Volte with gorgeous energy and focus. Le Volte is now done half in oak and half in concrete, which keeps the flavors lively and fresh. The blend is…

Spain’s New Releases, Part 2: Triumphs and Travails (May 2017)

Brilliant ruby-red. A heady, expansive bouquet evokes ripe red and dark berries, cherry compote, vanilla and cigar box, and a sexy floral nuance emerges slowly. Smooth and seamless on the palate, offering sweet, concentrated blackberry, cherry-vanilla and mocha flavors that are firmed and given spine by a core of juicy acidity. Rich yet vibrant in…

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Les Gravières is one of the most distinctive Saint-Émilions readers will come across. Black cherry, graphite, dried herbs and a host of savory and mineral inflections are all beautifully delineated. Vivid and wonderfully persistent, the 2020 is a knock-out.

Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Les Gravières lacks a bit of definition on the nose, black cherries and cassis, a little monotone perhaps. The palate is sweet and tannic on the entry, but this feels a bit forced and lacks elegance and complexity on the finish.

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Aug 2020)

The 2012 La Grande Année Rosé is airy, gracious and so wonderfully inviting. Crushed flowers, mint, white pepper and red berry fruit are all gracefully woven together. Today, the 2012 is naturally quite young and still shows the tension of a Champagne that was disgorged just a few months ago. Readers who prefer Champagnes with…