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2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2012 La Grande Dame is a dense, powerful Champagne. Now with a few years post-disgorgement, the 2012 is starting to show the first signs of aromatic development. Dried pear, chamomile, spice, light honey and marzipan are beautifully amplified throughout. The blend is 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, with the weight of Pinots from…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Full ruby-red color. Aromas of currant, minerals and tar. Seems a bit loose-knit on the front end for this wine, but has firm acidity. Then more impressive on the back half, with good shape and vinosity. Finishes firm and ripely tannic, with subtle persistence.

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1999 La Mission Haut-Brion has finely delineated black fruit, peppermint and secondary aromas of leather and chimney soot that emerge on the nose with time. This is powerful yet focused. The palate has wonderful structure, though it is not a forceful or “ambitious” La Mission. The 1999 compensates with grace and harmony, grainy texture…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Calon-Ségur is light on the nose with loam, autumn leaves and leather aromas, though there is little sign of any herbaceousness. The palate is medium-bodied with a pleasant, slightly tart entry. It’s not complex with pretty blackcurrant and cassis fruit, but there is an attractive harmony and residual sweetness on the finish. Worth…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

(92% cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc, 6% merlot and 2% petit verdot): Good full ruby. Bright raspberry, blackberry, minerals, espresso and a whiff of violet on the nose. Fine-grained and fresh in the mouth, with a floral quality adding lift to the dark fruit, flint and cocoa flavors. I had this wine on two different…

2013 Bordeaux: Walking the Tightrope (Apr 2014)

The 2013 Calon Ségur is refined and polished to the core. Sweet tobacco, graphite, crushed rocks and dark fruit all meld together in the glass. A wine of notable grace and elegance, the 2013 is all about finesse. A pure crystalline finish rounds things out in style. This is a promising showing.