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Postcard from Chablis: The 2018s & 2017s (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is another positively dazzling wine in Vincent Dauvissat's cellar. Powerful and deep, with seemingly endless layers of flavor that develop in the glass, the Clos is utterly mesmerizing from the first taste. Lemon confit, exotic white flowers and crushed rocks are some of the notes that develop. More…

Mirror Image: 2016 & 2017 Chablis (Aug 2018)

The 2017 Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru is perhaps more closed on the nose compared to the Les Preuses, at least on the day of my visit. It unfurls slowly with citrus lemon, flint and light undergrowth aromas. The palate is much more expressive with refined citrus fruit laced with spice, very harmonious with a…

The 2015 Red Burgundies: You Are So Going To Want Them (Jan 2017)

(40% vendange entier): Bright red-ruby. Deep, slightly reduced aromas of black raspberry, espresso and smoky minerality. Very concentrated but wonderfully suave, fine-grained and laid-back in the early going, showing no rough edges in spite of its brisk acidity. There’s outstanding energy to the sweet black fruit and soil flavors, with the wine’s new oak and…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has a well-defined bouquet of white peach, apricot and light candle wax aromas and nicely integrated oak. The well-balanced palate leads with quince and orange peel on the entry, revealing a pleasant bitter undertow and fanning out with confidence toward the saline finish. Excellent. Tasted blind at the annual…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Domaine de Chevalier Blanc offers quite a bit of upfront intensity and attack, but then loses persistence through the mid-palate and finish, which makes it come across as rather monolithic. I don’t see the focus, tension or energy that are such signatures of the Blanc. Perhaps time in bottle will help to some…

Roederer Cristal Rosé: A Journey Through Time 1976-2007 (May 2015)

One of the highlights in this tasting, the 2006 Cristal Rosé is simply stunning. A vertical, towering wine, the 2006 Cristal Rosé is a thrill a minute, with a compelling interplay of aromatics and exquisitely layered fruit, all supported by a real feeling of phenolic intensity. While the 2007 is seductive, the 2006 is virile…