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2017 Burgundy: A Modern Classic (Jan 2019)

The 2017 Montrachet Grand Cru has a stricter bouquet than the Chevalier-Montrachet, more mineral-driven and, you might argue, meaner and more challenging. But maybe that’s what you want from such a noble vineyard. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Quite saline and lightly spiced, touches of ginger developing toward the…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Saturated ruby-red. Knockout musky nose combines black raspberry, smoked meat, Asian spices, tobacco and hot stones. Large-scaled and plush on the palate, with compelling sweetness to the layered flavors of of dark raspberry, chocolate, mocha, tobacco and toasty, nutty oak (100% new). Finishes with substantial sweet tannins and outstanding length. For all its richness this…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

Fully saturated inky-ruby. Sexy aromas of balsamic plum, smoke, sweet spices and wild herbs. Dense, sweet and rich, with the palate showing more vibrancy than the nose suggests. Dark berry flavors are complemented by vanilla, balsamic vinegar and menthol but are currently slightly overwhelmed by smoky oak and cocoa. The wine finishes long but with…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(the grand crus were bottled about two weeks before my visit): Pale, bright yellow. Very subtle, scented aromas of lemon, flowers, noble herbs, white pepper and crushed stone. Sedate and harmonious in the mouth, with terrific intensity and sweetness to its floral and citrus flavors. Not especially fleshy or open-knit but this wine has the…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(the grand crus were bottled about two weeks before my visit): Pale, bright yellow. Very subtle, scented aromas of lemon, flowers, noble herbs, white pepper and crushed stone. Sedate and harmonious in the mouth, with terrific intensity and sweetness to its floral and citrus flavors. Not especially fleshy or open-knit but this wine has the…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru comes from southwest facing parcels (Fèvre almost half the holdings in this Grand Cru) has a very marine-influenced bouquet with touches of granite and a light smoky note. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, nicely focused with a touch of quince complementing the citrus…