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The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

(the grand crus were bottled about two weeks before my visit): Pale, bright yellow. Very subtle, scented aromas of lemon, flowers, noble herbs, white pepper and crushed stone. Sedate and harmonious in the mouth, with terrific intensity and sweetness to its floral and citrus flavors. Not especially fleshy or open-knit but this wine has the…

Swings and Roundabouts: Chablis 2020/2021 (Sep 2022)

The 2021 Chablis Bougros Grand Cru comes from southwest facing parcels (Fèvre almost half the holdings in this Grand Cru) has a very marine-influenced bouquet with touches of granite and a light smoky note. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, nicely focused with a touch of quince complementing the citrus…

New Vintage Champagnes (Nov 2011)

(50% pinot noir, 35% chardonnay and 15% pinot noir that was vinified as red wine and blended into this wine before the second fermentation): Bright, orange-tinged pink. A complex bouquet displays redcurrant, cherry pit, Asian spices and smoky minerals. Deeply concentrated but almost shockingly energetic flavors of redcurrant, bitter cherry, allspice and candied licorice. Finishes…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(13.1% alcohol; vinified with two-thirds whole clusters): Full medium red. Expressive, deep scents of black raspberry, mocha, licorice and minerals. Utterly silky, seamless Musigny with a bulletproof quality to its berry, spice and mineral flavors–and yet I sensed I was seeing just the tip of the iceberg. Builds inexorably on the back end, saturating the…

2012 & 2013 Napa Valley: Too Close to Call (May 2024)

The 2012 Dominus is a wild, exotic wine. Harvest began on October 9 and finished on the 21st, very late by present-day standards. Ripe red cherry, kirsch, cinnamon, rose petal, incense and rose petal soar out of the glass. Deep and vibrant, with terrific freshness, Dominus is very clearly one of the wines of the…

Exploring New Releases from Coastal Tuscany (Aug 2023)

The 2020 Sassicaia is a bold, rapturous wine. Dark, fleshy and expansive on the palate, the 2020 offers up scents of blackberry jam, gravel, spice, new leather, licorice and crème de cassis. Potent tannins are nearly buried by the sheer intensity of the fruit. Sassicaia is never a huge wine, the 2020 does seem to…