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A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Angélus is still very contained on the nose, therefore, for this sample, I transferred the wine several times between two glasses in order to pry it open. It has a delineated and tensile bouquet, with blackberry, briar and light marine scents percolating through with time. Hints of oyster shell emerge from the limestone…

Champagne – 2019 Fall Releases (Dec 2019)

The 2012 Cristal Rosé is magnificent. When Chef de Caves Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon started to move Roederer towards organically farmed fruit, he started with Cristal Rosé, Roederer’s smallest production cuveé. Because of that, Cristal Rosé is the wine in this range that shows the current Roederer style in its fullest expression. Rich, vivid and crystalline in…

Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

In this setting, the 2012 Cristal Rosé is a cut above the 2012 Cristal. The Rosé’s explosive energy and vibrancy are both compelling, and also a very fine match for the food. Time in the glass brings out the breadth and creaminess of the year. The blend is 55% Pinot Noir from Aÿ and 45%…

Vinous Table: Medlar, London, UK (Jun 2022)

The 2016 L’Hermitage came from another magnum. This strides authoritatively into the room wanting to make a big impression with its penetrating scents of maraschino cherries, blueberry and cassis on the nose, bunches of violet intermingling with olive tapenade. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins and spine-tingling acidity. Yes, it is way too young…

Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Inky ruby. Highly precise, mineral-accented black/blue fruit, exotic spice, olive paste and incense aromas pick up hints of smokiness and candied licorice as the wine opens up. Seamless and penetrating on the palate, offering urgent blueberry, cherry preserve, spicecake and floral pastille flavors and a strong jolt of smoky minerality. Deepens steadily on the strikingly…

Cellar Favorite: Raiding the Cellar at Inspire Napa Valley (Aug 2022)

Christophe Roumier’s 2009 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière 1er Cru is a typical wine for the year. Rich, radiant and luscious, it offers up gorgeous fruit to play off its undeniable Morey structure. The purity of the fruit and textures is just stunning. At thirteen years of age, the 2009 remains a very young, vibrant…