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Champagne Update (Nov 2006)

Bright, amber-tinged pink with pinpoint bubbles. Deep, smoky and complex, with a kaleidoscopic bouquet incorporating wild strawberry, peach, apricot, chestnut honey and cured meat. A firm, strikingly concentrated midweight with powerful flavors of orange peel, raspberry, redcurrant, baking spice and smoked meat and gentle supporting acidity. Smoky, sweet and long on the back, with a…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, USA (Jun 2025)

Sometimes the stars simply align. That is certainly the case at Rousseau in 2019, a truly extraordinary vintage at one of the world’s most iconic estates. The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St. Jacques 1er Cru is captivating right out of the glass. Soaring aromatics, deep layers of cool, blue-toned fruits and the silkiest of tannins captivate…

Herding Cats: Burgfest 2020 – The Reds (Oct 2024)

The 2020 Chambertin Grand Cru is a little oakier on the nose than its peers, though it remains proportionate to the fruit. There’s a little more concentration, maybe slightly later-picked, and then I notice a touch of TCA. The palate is medium-bodied with firm tannins, a keen line of acidity, a structure and more austere…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: The 2019s (Jun 2022)

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru is a perplexing wine. Tight and austere, the 2019 is not giving up much today. Then again, it is Richebourg. I like the energy, but the 2019 ultimately feels a bit light. The mid-palate is just not filled out. Next to all the other wines in this range, the Richebourg…

Better Than Water: Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 2019 in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Richebourg Grand Cru was picked on 15 and 16 of September at 21hL/ha. Slightly lighter compared to the Grands Echézeaux, it has a very transparent bouquet, yet introspective, certainly more tertiary in style with a light ferrous note loitering in the wings. This repays patience, opening with incense and a very subtle lavender…

Burgundy With A Bit of Age: 2000-2014 (May 2019)

The 2004 Nuits Saint-Georges Village is ostensibly a sibling of the Chambolle-Musigny in stylistic terms. It is slightly sharper on the nose, yet also quite rustic with a ferrous, undergrowth element that becomes more pronounced with aeration. There is also a welcome hint of dried orange peel that comes across both on the nose and…