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Germany 2001: Golden October? (Nov 2002)

Peach, ginger spice and high-toned maraschino aromas. Cherries and peaches continue to figure on the palate, which features an imposingly liqueur-like intensity, volatility and texture. For all of its upfront intensity, this leads to an elegant, polished, refined and remarkably long finish layering peach, candied citrus, red fruit, nut oils, honey, slate and spice. Incidentally,…

Allegrini Amarone: 1982 – 2004 (Apr 2010)

The 2003 Amarone is the complete opposite of the 2004, but it is every bit as convincing. Allegrini’s 2003 Amarone literally explodes onto the palate with masses of black cherries, chocolate and spices. It is a decidedly opulent, racy wine loaded with dark fruit, but the balance is impeccable. In the style of the vintage,…

2015 Châteauneuf-du-Pape: Power and Balance (Mar 2017)

(raised in a combination of foudres and barriques) Vivid ruby-red. Spice-accented red berries and fresh flowers on the fragrant nose, lifted by zesty minerality. Pliant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors show very good focus and spread out slowly with air. Smoothly plays depth off vivacity and finishes spicy and long, displaying just a hint of…

Vacqueyras 2011 and 2010 (Jan 2013)

(70% grenache and 30% syrah): Deep ruby. A heady bouquet evokes blackcurrant, cherry-cola and smoky herbs. Sappy and penetrating, offering intense dark fruit flavors and a sexy floral pastille quality. Dusty tannins come on late and add grip to the finish, which features strong smoke and lavender nuances. Note that this wine had not been…

2010 and 2009 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2012)

(70% grenache and 30% syrah): Dark ruby. Black and blue fruits on the pungent, spice-accented nose. Stains the palate with intense black raspberry and blueberry flavors lifted by tangy acidity. The spicy quality and repeating dark berry notes dominate on the long, sappy, impressively precise finish. This sexy wine is surprisingly approachable now but has…

Now, For My Latest Trick: Burgundy 2022 (Jan 2024)

The 2022 Volnay Les Pluchots comes from half a hectare of vines and matured in 20% new oak barrels. This is a conspicuous step up from the Village Cru with greater precision and tension, more complex red berry fruit intensifying in the glass. The medium-bodied palate is ripe with slightly grainy tannins, hints of mocha…