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Enticingly Fallible: Bordeaux 2021 En Primeur (May 2022)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc was picked between September 22 and October 14, and for the first time in many years there is a higher proportion of Cabernet Franc. This has a lovely bouquet, very clean and precise, featuring black cherry, wild mint, sous-bois and orange sorbet, all vivacious and very focused. The palate is medium-bodied…

2021 Bordeaux En Primeur: Back to Classicism (May 2022)

The 2021 Cheval Blanc is one of the wines of the vintage. Vertical and aristocratic in bearing, Cheval is just stunning. Time in the glass brings out compelling inner sweetness and perfume to play off a core of rich dark fruit, gravel, spice, menthol and dried flowers. I also tasted the final three blending components,…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Batailley has a vivacious, outgoing and quintessentially Pauillac nose with blackberry, mint and graphite bursting from the glass and demanding attention! The palate is medium-bodied with ample black fruit laced with graphite, sage and cracked black pepper. Wonderful depth and grip here, fanning out nicely towards the finish where there is a soupçon…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(78% cabernet sauvignon, 19% merlot, 2% petit verdot and 1% cabernet franc; 13.5% alcohol) Bright, dark red. Floral, fruity aromas of red berries, plum, red cherry and minerals, with the fruit element intensifying with aeration. In the mouth, bright red berry and sweet spice flavors are joined by a strong mineral quality and lifted by…

2011 Barolo: The Here and Now (Mar 2015)

The 2011 Barolo Brunate has finally begun to awaken from its post-bottling slumber. Surprisingly open for a young Rinaldi Barolo, the 2011 is round, spherical and supple. Leather, smoke, menthol and tobacco wrap around a plump, juicy core of dark Brunate fruit. The 2011 is almost shockingly accessible. The breadth and creaminess of Brunate is…

Focus on Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2004)

Full medium red. Aromas of graphite, rose petal and gunflint. Plum p and full in the mouth, but also highly aromatic, thanks to its floral and mineral components. Still, this rather saline, dry, serious Barolo is a bit youthfully aggressive today, and much less obviously sweet than Rivetti’s Barbarescos. Finishes with building tannins. Very promising…