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1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Reticent nose combines currant, nuts, and shoe polish. More tightly wrapped than the Armailhac, but also larger and more powerfully structured. Seems a bit more rustic than the ’96 Clerc-Milon. Finishes with very good length and tongue-coating tannins.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Ruby-red, not quite as deep as the ’96. Exotic, sweet aromas of currant, lead pencil, spice and woodsmoke. A huge wine that conveys a sense of sheer power, but not quite as delineated or stylish as the ’96. This really explodes on the aftertaste, but the ’96 is more subtle. Clearly first-growth size, but less…

A Century of…Fives (Jun 2025)

The 1995 Mouton Rothschild was tasted from ex-château bottles, and I had not tasted this vintage for a number of years. This puts in a very good performance given that it was not an auspicious decade for the First Growth. A mélange of red and black fruit gradually gives way to cassis on the nose,…

Cellar Favorite: 2001 Léoville Las-Cases (Aug 2021)

The 2001 Léoville Las Cases is simply stunning. I was fully prepared to decant it given that Las Cases is almost always a brute in its youth. And make no mistake about it, a twenty year-old Las Cases is still a youngster. Quite frankly, I am not at all prepared for the sheer intensity and…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Léoville Las Cases is a vintage I’ve encountered many times. Now at two decades old, it has a generous nose with those black plums still in situ, along with graphite and cedar; this bottle is a little more backward, probably due to the provenance. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, white…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Ruby-red. Aromas of kirsch, currant, graphite, minerals, camphor and smoky oak. Subtly sweet and penetrating, with lovely energy and clarity of flavor. Classic claret, finishing lively and very long, with the tannins reaching the front teeth.