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Written in the Stars: Bordeaux 1865-2020 (Dec 2023)

The 2010 Rieussec is similar to the previous bottle a couple of years ago. It has since opened with saffron-tinged honeyed fruit, dried honey and almond shavings. This example is more vanillary and oaky than previous ones, and that actually distracts from the terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied; again, the new oak feels more…

The 2019 Champagne Summer Preview (Jul 2019)

The 2000 Dom Pérignon is a gorgeous wine to drink now, as it is already showing quite a bit of aromatic and flavor complexity. Although the 2000 doesn’t have the multi-dimensional personality or structure of the very best DPs, it does offer tremendous drinking pleasure today. Hints of pastry, baked apple and mint add nuance,…

New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2008)

Pale gold with a fine bead. Gently smoky aromas of lemon, pear, bay, buttered toast and lees. Round, lightly sweet orange and pear flavors are underscored by smoky minerals and given bite by refreshingly bitter lemon pith. Finishes with a lingering smokiness. This is drinking very well right now and offers classic DP toastiness.

2013 Brunello di Montalcino: The Throwback Vintage (Feb 2024)

The 2013 Brunello di Montalcino is a showstopper, opening with a stunning bouquet of sour cherry, spiced citrus and clove complicated by traces of worn leather. This is silky and supple, showing ripe red fruit and mineral tones. It slowly gains tension toward the close but remains energized by zesty acidity all the way through….

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Vivid medium-dark red. Hints at black and red fruits on the delicate, refined nose, complicated by nuances of violet and flint. Then smooth and suave in the mouth, with outstanding breadth to the blueberry, sour red cherry, potpourri and floral flavors. Penetrating minerality contributes to the lasting impression of precision and verve. The noble, mouth-coating tannins provide…

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Musigny Grand Cru comprises one barrel, moved from a new to a used one after racking as they felt the oak influence was too strong. That was a clever decision as the oak is deftly interwoven on the nose and allowing the noble terroir to come through. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain…