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A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Grand-Puy-Lacoste has a slightly herbaceous, tertiary nose, though there is freshness here and delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with assertive tannins, but it feels a bit forced, and there is some discombobulating greenness on the finish that jars on the aftertaste. This is one of my favorite estates in Pauillac, but this seems…

Touring Tuscany: Carmignano, Montecucco and Beyond (Feb 2023)

Sweet spices, autumnal leaves, wild strawberries and white smoke hints make the 2019 Colore a total pleasure on the nose. This is wildly energetic and spry with tart wild berries accelerated by zesty acidity. Its fruits are crisp and pure, driven by saline minerality and exotic spices. The 2019 finishes lightly structured and buzzing with…

Chianti Classico 2015 & 2016: Right Place, Right Time (Feb 2019)

The 2015 Montevertine has closed down massively since it was bottled in February 2018. Beams of tannin dominate over the radiant fruit that was much more expressive when the wine was in barrel. Readers will have to be patient with the 2015, as it needs at least a few years in bottle to show the…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cos d’Estournel is a racy, powerful Saint-Estèphe that is going to need quite a bit of time to find its center. Today, it is tightly wound, but all the energy is there. Lush and extravagantly ripe, the 2018 possesses tremendous depth and plenty of energy to back it all up. Here, too, I…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cos d’Estournel is a racy, powerful Saint-Estèphe that is going to need quite a bit of time to find its center. Today, it is tightly wound, but all the energy is there. Lush and extravagantly ripe, the 2018 possesses tremendous depth and plenty of energy to back it all up. Here, too, I…