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Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1981 Yquem is disappointing after a surprisingly fine bottle in 2021. Still very resinous on the nose, it lacks botrytis and doesn’t really improve with aeration. There is a flatness here. The palate is better with orange rind, tangy marmalade and light apricot notes, along with a slightly acrid finish that feels short. Maybe…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

(a négociant wine bottled under the Méo-Camuzet Frère & Soeurs label; 70% new oak; tasted from cuve): Medium red. Lively aromas of tangy red cherry, raspberry and red licorice. Then juicy and tightly wound, offering modest flesh and ripeness to its flavors of red fruits, licorice and herbs. Finishes with brisk, slightly sour aciity and…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

(50% vendange entier Bright medium red. Subtle aromas of raspberry and spices. Pure, juicy and sharply delineated, with very good intensity and underlying material. This lively, firmly built wine finishes with very good cut and length. With better mid-palate stuffing than the Mitans, the tannins come off as finer. I’d give this three years.

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Medium red. Cherry, dried flowers, smoke and mocha on the rather musky nose. Ripe and lush in the mouth, with a distinctly creamy texture but firm finishing grip. This can’t quite match the Clos Saint-Denis today for energy but it has more volume and richness. Seems sweeter on the finish than in the middle. The…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Deep red-ruby. Currant, black plum, minerals and torrefaction notes of tar and smoke. Moderately rich and fat, but a bit less structured and deep than the best vintages for this cuvee A bit youthfully tough on the back end, but offers very good length.

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

Esmonin’s 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is rich, powerful and explosive. Today the Vieilles Vignes is surprisingly brooding and introspective in style. Black fruit, violets, dark spices and menthol inform the mysterious finish. The 2011 isn’t quite fully formed yet, but it is impressive and full of personality, that much is clear.