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Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(30% new oak; production was down by two-thirds owing to the frost): Briary red fruits and black cherry on the nose, along with some subtle spicy oak notes; showing less of this wine’s normal blueberry and mineral aromas. Fairly smooth but tight, conveying an impression of slightly green acidity to the complex flavors of medicinal…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Tertre-Rôteboeuf has a sumptuous, decadent and multi-layered bouquet with billowing black cherries, blueberry, crème de cassis and violet aromas that are hedonistic and irresistible. The palate is full-bodied with a lot of extraction: chocolate-tinged black fruit, sweet and candied with veins of peppermint toward the no-holds barred finish. A powerhouse of a Saint-Émilion,…

Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

It has been a few years since I tasted the 1991 Grands-Echézeaux from DRC. Now 29 years old, it has an ethereal, pure bouquet of vivacious red fruit, becoming floral with aeration and developing an unexpected subtle garrigue note. The palate is medium-bodied with quite firm tannins, superb backbone and a keen line of acidity….

2005 and 2004 Red Burgundies (Mar 2007)

Bright ruby-red. Very ripe aromas of black cherry, minerals and licorice. Full, sweet and fat with fruit; can’t quite match the Richebourg or RSV for floral high tones of sheer complexity but this too possesses a deep core of almost medicinal blackberry, licorice and menthol flavor. Perhaps a bit subdued today but stuffed with material….

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2013 Chambolle-Musigny Village just feels a little lean on the nose where I seek more flesh and terroir expression. The palate is better with clean, pure blackberry and cranberry notes, a dash of spice and commendable structure on the Morey-like finish. Like the 2013 Gevrey Village, I would like to see the aromatics develop…

The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Bright medium red. Black cherry, smoke, menthol and a leathery nuance on the nose. Spicy black cherry and licorice flavors show a juicy quality but only moderate depth. Bright acidity underscores the impression of cool medicinal reserve. A bit slight and dry on the finish. Will evolve quickly.