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2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

(the crop here was normal–in fact, higher than in 2017; bottled a week prior to my visit): Enticing aromas of lemon, lime, powdered stone and white flowers. Suave, silky and fine-grained; not particularly fleshy but broad, dry and energetic, with its citrus and floral flavors framed and extended by underlying minerality. Perfectly integrated acidity contributes…

Dom Pérignon Rosé Through the Decades at Vinous Icons

The 1982 Dom Pérignon Rosé, tasted from an original release and in magnum, is a last-minute addition. About an hour and half before lunch was to start, I received a frantic call that the restaurant could not locate the 1988 or 1986. Perhaps like the P2s and P3s, I have mellowed over time. These sorts…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux, Ten Years On

The 2016 Alter Ego has an attractive nose, a mélange of red and black fruit, pressed flowers, inkwell and light sous-bois scents. Very pure. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy tannins, fine acidity, a bit backward and maybe not quite as complex on the finish as its peers. This is one that I would like…

Champagne: The 2026 Spring Preview

The 1989 Cristal emerges from a very warm year, one of the hottest on record until that point. It’s a vintage that favored Pinot Noir over Chardonnay, hence a blend that is heavily Pinot-leaning. I find the aromas somewhat forward today, suggesting the 1989 is peaking. Time has also started to bring out some of…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Sappy redcurrant and spice nose. Bright, fruity and juicy in the mouth; firmly built and fairly intensely flavored, but the tannins seem slightly dry in comparison to the ’96.

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Reticent nose combines currant, nuts, and shoe polish. More tightly wrapped than the Armailhac, but also larger and more powerfully structured. Seems a bit more rustic than the ’96 Clerc-Milon. Finishes with very good length and tongue-coating tannins.