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Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Marsannay Trois Terres Vieilles Vignes needs quite a bit of coaxing on the nose. Liquorice-tinged dark berry fruit mixed with white pepper. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy, slightly chalky tannins, fresh and quite saline with an elegant finish. This Marsannay meliorates upon acquaintance and should repay cellaring over three or four years.

Servants of the Seasons: Burgundy 2021 (Jan 2023)

The 2021 Marsannay Es Chezots has a lively, vibrant bouquet with pure Dorset plum and bilberry scents, light iris petal aromas. Very detailed. The palate is medium-bodied with finely-chiselled tannins, quite chalky in texture, perhaps a little compact but I feel this has something up its sleeve for later. Fournier’s spiciest Marsannay. Great potential.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Pavie was tasted on two occasions. The first was from bottle at the château, where I felt it was quite sauvage and displayed more brettanomyces than I remembered. It was a peculiar showing. Then I tasted a magnum back in the UK, and this chimed more with previous bottles. Blackberry and crème de…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

(bottled in March of 2003) Good full medium ruby. Knockout nose of blackberry, espresso, licorice, minerals and burnished oak; offers terrific verve and clarity for a wine so ripe and rich. Then extremely youthful on the palate, with tightly wound flavors and great inner-mouth energy. Brilliant black fruit and mineral flavors offer compelling perfume. This…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer To Kalon is a blend of three clones off this historic ranch. A rush of dark red/purplish fruit, dried herbs, licorice, leather, scorched earth and tobacco saturates the palate. This inky, full-throttled Cabernet certainly has a ton to offer. A whole range of savory notes lead into the potent finish.

Best New Releases from Sonoma and Beyond (May 2019)

The 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon Les Pavots is a dense, powerful wine endowed with tons of raciness and class. Today, the 2016 is a bit shy, though. The aromatics are not as expressive as they can be. On the palate, the Pavots is much more giving. I sense a bit less heft than in the in…