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Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets (Dec 2018)

The 2015 Harlan Estate has developed into an arrestingly beautiful wine. Racy and sumptuous, the 2015 is already quite showy, with tons of dark cherry, plum, mocha, espresso, licorice, spice and tobacco character. Today, the 2015 comes across as a bit brooding and hard to read, although some of the rougher edges in the tannins…

Napa Valley’s Extraordinary 2016 Cabernets (Dec 2018)

The 2015 Harlan Estate has developed into an arrestingly beautiful wine. Racy and sumptuous, the 2015 is already quite showy, with tons of dark cherry, plum, mocha, espresso, licorice, spice and tobacco character. Today, the 2015 comes across as a bit brooding and hard to read, although some of the rougher edges in the tannins…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(an assemblage of parcels; 25 hectoliters per hectare from purchased 100%-millerandé grapes): Pale color. Very ripe aromas of orange zest and musky lees. Chewy, dense and saline, conveying very good cut but coming across as a bit youthfully clenched in the middle palate. Finishes with a fine dusting of tannins. Raphael Coche told me that…

2016 & 2015 White Burgundy (Sep 2017)

(U.S. cuvée, mostly Narvaux): An aroma of orange zest is lifted by fresh minerality. At once delicate and intense, offering juicy, sharply delineated citrus and stone flavors and superb inner-mouth tension for village wine. Finish with terrific echoing length and energy.

2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 2012 La Grande Dame is a dense, powerful Champagne. Now with a few years post-disgorgement, the 2012 is starting to show the first signs of aromatic development. Dried pear, chamomile, spice, light honey and marzipan are beautifully amplified throughout. The blend is 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Chardonnay, with the weight of Pinots from…

Cellar Favorite: Château Latour 2025 Late Releases (Feb 2025)

The 2016 Latour is a vintage that I have tasted a couple of times post-bottling. On one occasion, it warranted a perfect score, but that was then moot since this vintage had not been released. Now that it is due to hit the shelves this coming March, does the wine still merit that three-digit accolade?…