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The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Sep 2010)

Glass-staining purple. Exotic, pungent scents of cherry-cola, potpourri and white pepper, plus a sexy note of sandalwood. Very fresh in the mouth, with intense, floral-accented black raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that become sweeter and spicier with aeration. Blends vivacity and power smoothly, finishing with nervy mineral cut and a lingering note of spicecake. Like…

Focus on California’s North Coast (May 2008)

Good deep ruby-red. Wild aromas of cassis, game, leather and licorice, plus a whiff of band-aid. The distinct wildness carries through on the palate, where the dark berry and game flavors are framed by juicy acidity. This is pretty sauvage, and the finish is a bit edgy with acids and tannins.

Chile: Thinking Outside The Box (Jun 2023)

The 2020 Cinsault Las Curvas Parcela Única from Guarilihue in the Itata Valley spent a winter in concrete vats. Ruby-red in hue. Faint eucalyptus aromas are accompanied by notes of pomegranate. Taut and slim in the mouth, the finely grained tannins are a little rough. A taut, packaged red of intense flavor. Still very young.

Chile: A Stylistic Journey From the Andes to the Coastal Ridge (May 2021)

The 2020 Cinsault Itata IOC Tinajacura Alto Las Curvas from Tinajacura, Itata, was aged in amphorae. Bright purple in the glass. The jovial, diaphanous aromas include sour cherry, damp earth and stalk. Fruity in the mouth, it has a nimble freshness that tones down the ripe alcohol, keeping things light without losing the energy of…

2010 Barolo: Flying High Again (Jan 2014)

The 2010 Barolo is drop-dead gorgeous. Sweet red cherries, mint, licorice and spices jump from the glass in an expressive, beautifully delineated Barolo. The 2010 impresses for its energy, class and nuance, all of which are those of a wine that should sit higher up in the hierarchy. The purity of the fruit here is…

Barolo and Barbaresco (Nov 2013)

(aged entirely in barriques, about 20% new): Good deep red. Brooding aromas of dark fruits, cocoa powder, espresso and spices. Juicy, concentrated and backward, with dark fruit and spice flavors accented by dried herbs, mint and pepper. Well done.