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Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

The 2012 Le Serre Nuove dell’Ornellaia is striking. Mocha, plums, roasted coffee beans, espresso, dark red fruit and smoke are some of the notes that meld together in the glass. Deceptively medium in body, the 2012 possesses notable energy and structure. This is a terrific showing from Ornellaia’s second wine.

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Dark ruby-red.  Medicinal aromas of blackberry, menthol, mocha, tobacco and dried herbs.  At once silky and juicy, offering noteworthy intensity to its blackberry and dark red cherry fruit flavors.  The savory, sappy finish is broad and vibrant, without any sign of heaviness.  A very good wine, but to me it lacks a little excitement—plus it’s…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Réserve de la Comtesse feels unusually primal on the nose with brine-tinged black fruit, touches of graphite but overall it does not come across as particularly finessed. The palate is medium-bodied with grippy tannin, a little extracted in style with impressive weight, just lacking a little sophistication towards the finish. That said, it…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, medium ruby-red. Aromas of black raspberry, smoked meat, licorice and herbs. Ripe and serious for a second wine, offering nicely concentrated, lively flavors of currant, dark raspberry, spices, herbs and licorice. Finishes with plenty of dusty tannins and very good grip and verve.

Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Vivid red. Expansive spice- and mineral-accented aromas of ripe black raspberry and blueberry, along with white pepper and woodsmoke nuances. Stains the palate with intense red and dark berry flavors, showing a suave blend of power and vivacity, with juicy acidity adding lift and bite. Supple tannins give shape and clarity to the long, spicy,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 2008 Gracia has a ripe and generous bouquet with black cherries, boysenberry, fig compote and a touch of sage. It is not complex but I admire the definition. The palate is medium-bodied with sweet red fruit and yet the tannins feel edgy and a little angular, so that they don’t quite fit together. I…