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2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac is every bit as impressive as it was en primeur. What a wine. Fresh, brisk and wonderfully vibrant in the glass, the 2022 soars with striking Cabernet Sauvignon aromatics. Graphite, menthol, sage, mint, licorice, dried flowers and a kiss of well-judged oak all meld together in the glass. Great wine is the…

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2022 Brane-Cantenac marked a year when ownership passed to Henri Lurton’s four children, although he remains as general manager. More importantly (perhaps), the 2022 is a benchmark for the Margaux estate, its future North Star. This has a stupendous nose with intense Cabernet Sauvignon inflections, its intensity and delineation superior to the 2019 and…

A Place Beyond Praise: Bordeaux 2022 (Feb 2025)

The 2022 Le Petit Mouton is a touch more backward than when I tasted it from barrel, but it offers wonderful purity with blackberry, cedar and light crushed stone aromas that blossom in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with graphite-tinged black fruit on the entry, showing impressive depth on the mid-palate. It is slightly…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Le Petit-Mouton is a rich, powerful wine, almost exaggeratedly so in this vintage. A blast of dark cherry, plum, leather, cloves and licorice stains the palate with notable resonance. There's a lot of wine here, but the 2022 is going to need quite a few years to shed some of its considerable youthfulness….

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Beauséjour is fabulous. I find it better from bottle than it was in barrel. Explosive aromatics from the Franc make a strong first impression. Bright acids drive through a core of dark red fruit, blood orange, spice, new leather and espresso. All the elements meld together seamlessly. What a vivid and gorgeous wine…

2022 Bordeaux in Bottle: Living in the Present (Jan 2025)

The 2022 Croix de Beauséjour is a delightful second wine. Aromatic and light on its feet, this mid-weight Saint-Émilion is a fine choice for drinking now and over the next handful of years. Crushed flowers, spice and new leather add layers of understated nuance. It's all class and refinement here.