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Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Léoville Las Cases is a vintage that I have encountered a dozen or so times. Jean-Hubert Délon oversaw a magnificent wine in this year. The nose of graphite-infused black fruit is still vivacious and very complex, very Pauillac-like, and supremely well focused. Hints of licorice develop with aeration. The medium-bodied palate features sappy…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full, bright ruby. Superripe aromas of roasted currant, violet and black licorice. Powerful and highly aromatic in the mouth, with brooding black fruit, violet and chocolate flavors. A step up in acidity from the Clos du Marquis, giving the wine great vinosity and cut. Extremely long and aromatic on the finish, with big, chewy, thoroughly…

The 2019 Napa Valley Cabernets: A Deep Dive (Jan 2022)

The 2018 Dominus has really shut down over the last year. I underestimated its imposing structure and density, both of which are on fully display today. The 2018 is a potent Dominus endowed with superb depth and tons of vertical explosive energy allied to a feeling of elegance that becomes increasingly apparent over time. Dark…

Veneto: A Constant State of Evolution (Feb 2024)

The 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico opens with an intense burst of shaved cedar, dark chocolate and crushed black cherries. This soothes with its silky textures, offset by tart red and black fruits as rosy inner florals form toward the close. Medium in length, it finishes fresher than expected, showing the wiry yet energetic character…

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

Pol Roger”s flagship Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is fabulous in 2012. Rich, open-knit and seductive, the 2012 will drink well right out of the gate, although it certainly has the pedigree to age well for decades. Lemon confit, chamomile, dried flowers, mint, spice and a kick of brioche infuse the 2012 with notable textural…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Pavie is a vintage I have met a couple of times before, this predating Gérard Perse’s acquisition in 1997. It has an attractive old school nose of light black fruit, roof tiles and cedar; a little diffuse but still fresh. The palate is medium-bodied with a tart cherry entry, wild mushroom and sandalwood….