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Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 2002 Yquem has a very seductive nose, fresh almonds, Gâteau Basque, saffron and candle wax, not the most complex compared to other vintages yet nicely focused. The palate keeps it tight and linear on the entry, plenty of concentration though with a counterbalancing bitter edge that keeps this Yquem on its toes. Probably reaching…

Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)

Bright inky purple. Highly perfumed aromas of blackberry, violet and minerals are complicated by a sweet note of peppery balsamic reduction. Enters the mouth rich and dense, then turns leaner and more austere on the back half, showing lovely purity of black fruit and mineral flavors. Finishes long and refined. With a little more sweetness…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Les Ormes de Pez has an impressive bouquet, beautifully defined, not intense but precise, earthy black fruit mixed with tar and freshly rolled tobacco. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins. Exquisite balance, not complex, but so much freshness with the most tension revealed on the finish. This was a bit of a…

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

The 2012 Cuvée S is quite shy today. I take that as an excellent sign for its long-term prospects. Bright, vibrant and super refined, the 2012 starts to open with a bit of coaxing. Most bottles have been much more open than this.

Salon Cuvée S 1996-2013 at Vinous Icons

The 2012 Cuvée S is quite shy today. I take that as an excellent sign for its long-term prospects. Bright, vibrant and super refined, the 2012 starts to open with a bit of coaxing. Most bottles have been much more open than this.

Hand Over the Keys: Brane-Cantenac 1928-2023 (Sep 2025)

The 2000 Brane-Cantenac represents the only vintage that eschewed any vin de presse due to a meticulous selection. This has a gorgeous bouquet that blossoms in the glass: a mélange of red and black fruit vie for attention as an underlying mineralité lends more dimension that previous vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with finely sculpted…