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2022 Mosel-Saar-Ruwer: Old Vines and Steep Challenges (Oct 2023)

The 2022 Riesling Scharzhofberger Spätlese has an alluring flicker of bergamot on its citrus-scented nose, green-tinged, highly aromatic and not too distant from tart but perfumed passion fruit. The palate brings Mirabelle compote, sweet but laced with citrus freshness. The mouthfeel is super-fine, heightened, like being inside a cloud of fruity, citrus-perfumed, moist air. This…

Chianti Classico & Neighbors: Looking at the 2020s and 2019s (Jul 2022)

The 2019 Tignanello is one of the most reserved, understated young wines I can remember tasting here. In so many vintages Tignanello is quite showy, but in 2019 the nervous energy and brightness of Sangiovese takes center stage. That’s intriguing, because the 2019 blend has a bit more Cabernet Sauvignon than normal, a decision made…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Cheval Blanc is sublime on the nose with red fruit, sandalwood, touches of tobacco and dried flowers. The oak is seamlessly integrated and very well focused. The palate is fine-boned, fresh and tensile, with a keen line of acidity, real depth and insistent grip suggesting that this will age with panache. Serious and…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Cheval Blanc has an intriguing bouquet, one you have to really just sit and ponder for a couple of minutes, and I don't mean that in a negative way. It seems mercurial in the glass, especially when compared directly with the hedonistic 2015 Pavie. Scents of red berries, pencil shavings, cedar and light…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Cheval Blanc is sublime on the nose with red fruit, sandalwood, touches of tobacco and dried flowers. The oak is seamlessly integrated and very well focused. The palate is fine-boned, fresh and tensile, with a keen line of acidity, real depth and insistent grip suggesting that this will age with panache. Serious and…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Cheval Blanc has an intriguing bouquet, one you have to really just sit and ponder for a couple of minutes, and I don't mean that in a negative way. It seems mercurial in the glass, especially when compared directly with the hedonistic 2015 Pavie. Scents of red berries, pencil shavings, cedar and light…