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Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2020 Corton-Bressandes Grand Cru has quite a stony, mineral-driven bouquet that is requires more coaxing than the Corton-Perrières. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, fine acidity, lightly spiced with a harmonious finish that fans out beautifully. This is quite a sensual wine but I suspect it may well close up and warrant…

Germany’s Charming 2002 Vintage (Jan 2004)

Fresh apple, lemon and subtly woodsy notes in the nose. Elegant and delicate in palate impression, suggesting creaminess. Wet stone, smoke and brown spices waft through a diaphanous curtain of fruit. Very long and thought-provoking, if restrained. One thought is it’s not yet showing half of what it has in reserve. Potential 2 stars.

Joel Payne on Germany 2005 (Jan 2007)

Pale golden yellow with a hint of green. Subtle honeysuckle aroma blends with hyacinth and lime. Pure, polished peachy fruit and a very refined minerality drift dreamily across the palate.Delicate, almost ethereal and quite long.

Germany 2001: Golden October? (Nov 2002)

Poached pear, honey and redcurrant with notes of citrus rind and herbal tea. There is an invigorating citricity and a bracingly salty layer of minerality here, then beneath that, deep pools of fruit and a foundation of sheer stone. The finish bursts forth with fresh red fruit, pear, vanilla, honey and minerals, the sheer force…

Germany 2006: An Unusual Auslese Year (Jan 2008)

Pale golden yellow. Tantalizing aromas of passion fruit, wild strawberry and incense. Elegant but intense fruit is paired with brilliant acidity. Animated and finely spiced, with a deep, long finish. One of the finest spatleses of the vintage.

Germany 2003: Extreme Riesling (Jan 2005)

Tangerine, lime and blueberry aromas. Juicy and smooth on the palate, with a lime sorbet character accented by salty mineral notes. Very pure, clear and bracing, with a genuine Kabinett elegance and delicacy. 1 star.