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Rioja: The Past Is Always Present (Apr 2021)

Deep red. Expansive scents of ripe red and blue fruits, potpourri and baking spices, plus hints of vanilla and tobacco in the background. Gently chewy in texture and appealingly sweet, offering nicely concentrated cherry-vanilla, blueberry and mocha flavors that tighten up on the back half. Shows good depth as well as energy and finishes long…

Cellar Favorite: Marqués de Riscal Gran Reserva 1952-2015 (Oct 2019)

The 2015 Rioja Reserva, which comes mainly from Rioja Alavesa, has a tightly wound bouquet of broody black fruit, Cuban cigar and black olive. It is not intense, but it is very elegant. The medium-bodied palate is off-dry, marked by fine acidity and plenty of soy-tinged black fruit. With aeration, it develops more depth and…

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

(a blend of Charmes and Mazoyeres) Good full red. Subtly complex nose melds musky strawberry, cherry, dried flowers and smoke. Offers more breadth and thrust than the Clos de la Roche, with very good life and minty lift to the flavors of red fruits, flowers and game. Finishes with substantial broad, dusty tannins and good…

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Bright medium red. Very ripe but brooding nose hints at raspberry, spices, underbrush and resiny oak. Quite structured and backward, but already offers complex hints of minerals, licorice and soil. Finishes firmly tannic and long. Closed, uncompromising wine that appears to call for at least five or six years of patience.

2003 and 2002 Red Burgundies (Mar 2005)

Bright medium red. Very ripe but brooding nose hints at raspberry, spices, underbrush and resiny oak. Quite structured and backward, but already offers complex hints of minerals, licorice and soil. Finishes firmly tannic and long. Closed, uncompromising wine that appears to call for at least five or six years of patience.

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Deep red. Aromas of cassis, black cherry, roasted strawberry, licorice and woodsmoke. A bit disjointed today, with the wine herbal element clashing with its roasted, tarry oak. Like a few of these ’99s, this is not showing the texture and breadth it displayed a year ago from barrel, perhaps a result of filtration (some Faiveley…