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2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

($3120) Good red-ruby. Knockout nose of black raspberry, tobacco and flowers; vibrant for 2003. Then dense, creamy and seamless yet almost shockingly vibrant, with outstanding balance and an impression of firm acids. In fact, this is the highest in acidity of these 2003s, with a pH of 3.5 (the rest are between 3.6 and 3.65,…

Napa Valley: The Frantic 2020s & Stunning 2021s (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) is a heady, potent wine that shows the heat of the year in its forward, opulent personality. Super-ripe black cherry, plum, chocolate, herbs, earthiness, and licorice are all amplified in this decidedly exuberant, potent wine. There’s not a lot of subtlety, and plenty of impact. Even so, this opens…

The 2014 White Burgundies: What’s Not To Like? (Sep 2016)

Bright, light yellow. Aromas of fresh apricot, spices and wet stone come across as a bit more exotic than those of the Charmes. The minerality of the site comes through on the dry, rich, salty palate, which delivers wonderfully chewy, tactile flavors of pineapple and crushed stone without any hardness. Finishes with terrific building length….

The 2014 & 2013 White Burgundies (Sep 2015)

Bright, light yellow. Sexy aromas of peach and minerals. Supple and silky but adamantly dry, offering discreet notes of nut oil, gingerbread and black pepper. Strong material here but in a distinctly cerebral style. Long on the aftertaste. As with the Charrons, of which Boyer has just a single barrel, the crop here was cut…

Chablis 2010 and 2009 (Jul 2011)

(70% fermented in oak, none new): Lime blossom and spices on the nose. Tight and taut for Bougros, showing less give today than the Vaulorent Domaine. A bit lacking in flesh owing in part to strong citrussy acidity. Not yet especially complex, but I suspect this wine will drink on the early side. Finishes with…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Perrières Blanc 1er Cru, which had been bottled, has a tightly wound bouquet with pressed flowers and light orange zest aromas mixed with a hint of almond. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity and slightly waxy in texture, revealing tangerine and a light almond/hazelnut note…