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2025 Champagne: New Releases (Apr 2025)

The 1998 Dom Ruinart Rosé is in the zone. Sweet pipe tobacco, cedar, incense, licorice, dried herbs, chocolate, orange peel and game lend a decidedly exotic flair. The 1998 is perhaps a touch lithe, but it is so expressive. The blend includes 20% still Pinot, and that very much comes through in the wine’s strong…

A Century of…Sixes: 1846-2016

The 2006 Grand-Puy-Lacoste has an attractive and quite medicinal bouquet of black cherries, cassis, peppermint and light violet scents. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly dry tannins, still medicinal in style with a core of savoury, dried-blood-tinged black fruit. The finish is just a bit short. Fine.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

: Good medium ruby-red color. More grilled on the nose than the 2004 or 2005: superripe black fruits and bitter chocolate. Then liqueur-like verging on confectionery in the mouth, but with surprisingly healthy acids giving shape to the dominant black fruit flavors. At once velvety and quite powerful, with the fine-grained tannins currently conveying a…

Outsider Looking In: Sociando-Mallet 1982-2015 (March 2019)

The 2003 Sociando-Mallet is a blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc picked between September 10 and 24. It was aged in new oak barrels for 11 months. Coming from the north Médoc, it would have enjoyed onshore breezes that mitigated the summer heat. The bouquet shows no signs of that…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Deep, bright medium red. Roasted, slightly wild aromas of black raspberry, mocha and game complicated by an exotic candied quality. Lush, silky and utterly seamless wine, with compelling concentration and sweetness of fruit. This didn’t quite match the Haut-Bailly I tasted before it for lift but there’s enough energy here, not to mention noble, fully…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Branon has a pure bouquet with black cherries, bilberry and just a touch of boot polish. It feels well defined with nicely integrated oak. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, juicy and succulent with a nicely detailed, quite peppery finish with a persistent aftertaste. Based on this performance I might well have…