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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Dark ruby-red. Blackcurrant, cedar and minerals on the forward nose. Fresh, sweet and smooth on entry, then slightly austere in the middle, with rich black fruit and herb flavors joined by an emerging hint of underbrush. The finish is chewy and moderately persistent. Though Le Clarence has lately been a rather austere wine when young,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 46% merlot, 39% cabernet sauvignon, 13% cabernet franc and 2% petit verdot; 14% alcohol; pH 3.88; 77 IPT) Dark ruby-red. Reticent, brooding nose hints at red cherry, blackcurrant, violet, minerals and cedar. Extremely fine-grained and smooth, with harmonious acidity giving laser-like precision to the red fruit and mineral flavors. Completely devoid of…

2011 Red Burgundy: Three Sides of a Coin (Mar 2014)

The limits of the vintage are apparent in the 2011 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, which lacks the depth and structure that are typical of this side. Dried flowers, iron and red stone fruits emerge, but there is only modest depth in the glass. This is a pretty, nuanced, mid-weight Burgundy, but not especially typical of…

2011 Red Burgundies (Jan 2013)

Good medium red. Extravagantly complex nose combines raspberry, wild rose, crushed rock, clove, mocha and wild herbs. Wonderfully subtle, spherical and nuanced, communicating an almost 3-D texture to the flavors of red berries, spices, licorice, herbs and flowers. The wine’s firm spine of tannins is utterly covered by lush, fleshy fruit today. The thick, slowly…

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2006)

Inky violet with a bright rim. Explosive and utterly captivating on the nose, offering a range of aromas that encompasses red and darker berries, flowers, cigar box, minerals and sexy oak spices. Quite broad on the palate, and packing a real punch to its flavors of cassis, boysenberry, candied plum, bitter chocolate and fruitcake. Serious,…

Intellect & Senses: Bordeaux With Time (Mar 2025)

The 1995 Lafleur is a vintage that I have encountered several times. This example offers dark berry fruit, Earl Grey and light gamey aromas, coalescing nicely in the glass but still stubbornly backward. Plus ça change – c’est Lafleur! The palate is medium-bodied with more fleshiness than the bottle drunk with Baptiste Guinaudeau. It has…