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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Red-ruby. Pungent, somewhat floral aromas of cedary oak, red raspberry and dark chocolate; slight jammy note. Supple and easygoing in the mouth, with a liqueur-like note of red berries. An essentially slight but nicely balanced wine, showing more personality today than it did from barrel a year ago.

1998 and 1997 White Burgundies (Sep 1999)

Compelling, superripe aromas of apple, spearmint, minerals and oak spice. Great density and gras but also shows brilliant delineation and brightness. Exhilarating inner-mouth minerality. At once powerful and shapely. Very slow-building, uncannily long aftertaste. As good a Corton-Charlemagne as Guffens has made to date.

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1999 La Petit Eglise, the second wine of l’Église-Clinet, is a gem. Having undertaken a vertical many years ago in Germany, I am aware of how this wine can mature gracefully in a bottle. The 1999 sports winsome redcurrant and wild strawberry fruit on a simple, effective, fresh bouquet. The palate had a slightly…

1998 and 1997 Sauternes (Jul 2000)

Complex, classy aromas of nectarine, apricot, smoke and roasted grain. Very rich and concentrated; full and sweet for Barsac but carrying no excess weight. Lovely pliant texture. Finishes very long, spicy and fresh. A very elegant wine with an impressively long, spicy aftertaste.

What Nectar!! Suduiraut 1899-2015 (March 2019)

The 1996 Suduiraut feels rather flat on the nose after 22 years, missing the intensity of later vintages, caramel and toffee-ish notes emerging with time. The palate is fully mature with simple orange rind and peach notes, however, it fades too rapidly on the finish. Compared to previous bottles this feels as if it is…

1997 and 1996 Sauternes (Jul 1999)

Slight SO2 and a whiff of licorice on the nose. Fat, oaky and moderately thick; fairly sweet but doesn’t offer the shape or depth of flavor of the ’97. The finish, though, is ripe, honeyed and long.