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1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Saturated deep ruby. Ineffable aromas of black fruits, minerals, licorice and Havana tobacco. Rich, dense and thick; powerful but harmonious. Layered texture over a strong backbone. Very long on the palate, with thoroughly ripe, noble cabernet tannins. Superb.

Fairest of Them All: Cos d’Estournel 1928 – 2015 (Oct 2018)

The 1996 Cos d’Estournel has a fragrant, Pauillac-tinged bouquet with the melted tar and graphite leitmotifs that I remarked upon in previous encounters. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy-textured tannin. I feel that the 1996 shows a tad more maturity than a few months ago, with undergrowth and peat-like notes surfacing with aeration and then…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1986 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of the standout wines of the decade, and served blind, this suggests that it might have the 1982 in its sights. In many ways, it is the twin brother of the Cabernet-driven 1996. It bolts out of the stable doors with intense blackberry and cedar aromas – pure…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Mouton Rothschild takes a few swirls of the glass to coalesce, slightly minty black fruit commingling with cassis and iris flower. Doesn’t quite “flow” like subsequent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy on the mid-palate and concentrated in the context of the vintage. A touch of burnt toast and white…

A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Mouton Rothschild takes a few swirls of the glass to coalesce, slightly minty black fruit commingling with cassis and iris flower. Doesn’t quite “flow” like subsequent vintages. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy on the mid-palate and concentrated in the context of the vintage. A touch of burnt toast and white…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

Bright medium red. The aromas of black cherry, blackberry and menthol show a medicinal reserve. Superconcentrated, chewy and fresh, offering a near-perfect balance of primary fruits and saline, soil-driven minerality. Jadot waited longer than in past years to harvest their fruit in Chambolle-Musigny, said Barnier, noting that this represents a bit of a change in…