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Taittinger: Comtes de Champagne 1971— 1998 (Aug 2010)

The 1989 Comtes de Champagne is darker in color than the 1988 and also quite a bit more forward. Candied orange peel, spices and caramel suggest it is on a fairly quick path. Today the 1989 is most impressive for its generous texture and complete, developed personality. This won’t make old bones, but it is…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 2004 La Conseillante took a little time to settle in the glass but eventually reveals pretty red brambly fruit mixed with wild hedgerow, broom and graphite. With aeration it musters more and more precision, so decanting is advisable for this vintage. The palate is showing very well. It has a surprising structure and plenty…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Red-ruby. Aromas of red cherry, violet and licorice, complicated by mint and tobacco; cooler than the ’05 or 06 and more Burgundian in style. Suave and fresh but narrower than the subsequent vintages. Still, the tannins are ripe and easy rather than dry and the finish offers good persistence. This will make a tasty drink…

Vinous Lockdown Special (Oct 2020)

The 2009 Alpilles Rouge is a powerful, brooding wine. It is also the most reticent of the five wines in this report. I don’t see the aromatic nuance, textural richness or finesse of the best years. Instead, the 2009 comes across as brooding and a bit monolithic. Of course, it is possible the 2009 is…

Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel (Feb 2025)

The 2009 is a Saint-Estèphe lauded in some quarters upon release, anointed with perfect scores, albeit not from myself. From my introduction in barrel with then estate manager, Jean-Guillaume Prats, the 2009 felt over-endowed, a wine predesigned to flutter its lashes during en primeur, one that equated sheer power with quality. I last drank this…

Cellar Favorite: 2009 & 2010 Cos d’Estournel (Feb 2025)

The 2009 is a Saint-Estèphe lauded in some quarters upon release, anointed with perfect scores, albeit not from myself. From my introduction in barrel with then estate manager, Jean-Guillaume Prats, the 2009 felt over-endowed, a wine predesigned to flutter its lashes during en primeur, one that equated sheer power with quality. I last drank this…