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A Century of…Fours (Jun 2024)

The 2004 Smith Haut Lafitte is mature on the nose with dark cherries, blackcurrant, marmalade and light candied orange peel scents. This is very attractive. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins. This is not a complete SHL but has fine acidity with a plush, slightly menthol finish.

2007 and 2006 Red Burgundies (Mar 2009)

Full ruby-red color. Black fruits, game and licorice on the nose, with a whiff of violet. Fatter, suppler and sweeter than the foregoing premier crus, in a more gentle, charming style. This seems a bit more evolved than the Lavaux and perhaps suited for drinking before that wine. But this is still a sizable wine…

2008 Sauternes and Barsacs (May 2010)

Bright light gold. Ripe cling peach, fresh apricot, spices, coconut, minerals and white flowers on the nose, with a note of vanillin oak emerging with air; subdued but wonderfully pure and precise. At once thick and light on its feet, showing an utterly seamless texture and compelling sweetness but also lovely inner-mouth tension thanks to…

The Barossa: An Ascent to Higher Quality (Dec 2021)

Saturated ruby. Deeply pitched, spice-accented aromas of cassis, smoky minerals, incense and dark chocolate. Large-scaled and broad in the mouth, offering intense blackcurrant, cherry-vanilla, mocha and candied violet flavors that are supported by a core of juicy acidity. Shows superb density and vivacity as well, with no rough edges. Finishes extremely long and precise, with…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Pale gold. Knockout aromas of creme brulee, coconut, vanilla bean, honey and orange peel. Lush and seductively silky in the mouth; its creamy, seamless texture makes it seem deceptively accessible today but sound acid structure should keep it going for 20 years or more. Not hugely sweet or tropical but very complex and fine. Firm,…

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Full-blown aromas of caramel, toffee, honey, white chocolate and damp earth; slightly Tokaj-like. Hugely concentrated and layered in the mouth; extraordinary sweetness cut by harmonious acidity. As with the best vintages of Yquem, the finish goes on for a minute or more. Stains, and stuns, the palate. A huge wine, surprisingly extravagant on the nose…