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Vinous Icons: Roederer – Four Decades of Cristal & Cristal Rosé (Nov 2024)

Interestingly, the 2013 Cristal Rosé is more austere than the Blanc. It has plenty of vibrant energy and steeliness but also a touch less generosity today. I suspect the 2013 is going through a period of closure, which I take as a positive sign for its long-term prospects and aging potential—likely to be measured in…

Caught Somewhere in Time: Clos de Tart 1887-2016 (Feb 2019)

The 2016 Clos de Tart Grand Cru, cropped at 35hl/ha, is the first year farmed biodynamically. This was completely breathtaking in barrel, and now, in bottle, nothing has changed in that respect. It has an ineffably complex bouquet, not as intense as it showed in barrel yet extremely deep and cerebral, black fruit mingling with…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(an approximation of the final blend): Bright, deep red. Very pure but reserved aromas of raspberry, crushed rock, rose petal, spices, mocha and tobacco, lifted by a calcaire pungency. Compellingly silky and seamless but with terrific energy and subtle intensity to its dense flavors of red berries, dark cherry, spices and powdered stone, complicated by…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Haut-Brion has a sophisticated bouquet with blackberry, raspberry, tobacco and smoke aromas unfurling gradually in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied, harmonious and poised, with pliant tannins. This is very pure toward the finish that feels caressing and deftly disguises the structure beneath. It is excellent. Tasted blind at the 2015 Bordeaux Ten-Year-On…

Bordeaux 2015 At Age Ten (Jun 2025)

The 2015 Haut-Brion is much less flamboyant and expressive on the nose compared to La Mission, but it is very nuanced with those signature game and roasted chestnut scents percolating through the black fruit. The palate is medium-bodied with finely chiseled tannins, wonderful balance and poise. It's lightly spiced with a dash of black pepper…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

Olivier Berrouet turned out a fabulous Petrus in 2019. A gorgeous, expansive wine, the 2019 opens beautifully over time. There is a feeling of radiance in the 2019 that is impossible to miss. Hints of rose petal, lavender, mint and cinnamon meld effortlessly into a core of red/purplish fruit. At 14.8%, the alcohol is high,…